Yesterday... (pics)

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Wretch

Wretch

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That fuel tank is properly fucked! It can be brought back, but it's gonna take a lot of time and work. It would almost be better to cut the bottom out, or at least a good sized section, blast the insides clean, weld it and seal it back up with KBS or Por15.

Or, I would start with vinegar or commercial rust remover. The commercial stuff is expensive but works really well. The vinegar is dirt cheap and works OK, but you'll probably have to fill it, let it sit for a few days (give it a shake every once in awhile) drain the stuff out and pour a fresh load in to finish it off. Then it's a race to stop it from rusting right away. Por15 and KBS make kits with everything you need. But since that tank is so nasty, I'd douce it first then use the stuff in the kit. The stuff in the kit keeps it from rusting right away, but you can't ignore it for days or maybe even hours, the whole job is a race against time.

I'm thinking aboot trying my spinner on tank during the sealing part, pour the stuff in and let it spin for a few minutes then POUR THE EXCESS OUT.

I'm doing some 60's Honda Scrambler tank now, it's going on the spinner tomorrow.

Thanks for your input on this MC.
The carbs, I have a 5 gallon bucket of methelene chloride for which has always done well for me and then some mag wheel acid if needed to get any corrosion but they look pretty good in that department.
I figured about 12 hours or two days of stripping, dipping/soaking, cleaning and reassembly.
Apparently the aftermarket filter I installed on the bike was a good one since the carbs look this good.

The tank, well, I'm going to start off dry with gravel and even have considered making a tumbler out of some wood pieces since I have plenty to work with, tools to make mounts and an electric cement mixer to cobble on.
From there I'll look at chemicals I have on hand for finish the rust stripping.
Lots of metal left in this tank as it feels solid and no weak spots found as of yet
The coatings I'll have to make up my mine on and get some before I get started on the finish chem strip part, since I'm sure it'll only be minutes before the rust starts showing again here.

If the chem strip doesn't look like it's going well then I'll just bite the bullet and find a replacement tank and create a new paint scheme with colors that aren't $320.00/quart in 00' money.
 

Team222

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Fuck that and I have cleaned a lot of carbs over the years.

Go to the ZRXOA forum and pick up a set of used carbs, I see them go for anything between $250 to $400 for a clean, jetted set of carbs.
 
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Wretch

Wretch

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Fuck that and I have cleaned a lot of carbs over the years.

Go to the ZRXOA forum and pick up a set of used carbs, I see them go for anything between $250 to $400 for a clean, jetted set of carbs.
I have another set of stock carbs but, I also know how to make these right again with little effort and barring unseen damage as of yet.
 

Master-Cylinder

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Those cheap Chink cement mixers where the bucket sticks out and tilts would make an easy tumbler, just take the bucket off and modify from there. They tilt so that would work. Like this, but find a cheaper one.

1558009427790.png
 
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Wretch

Wretch

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...fire is your friend sometimes...
Sometimes but, I haven't used a heated alkaline bath in years.

Those cheap Chink cement mixers where the bucket sticks out and tilts would make an easy tumbler, just take the bucket off and modify from there. They tilt so that would work. Like this, but find a cheaper one.

View attachment 18836
Exactly the device I'll be using.
Drum off and a mount made to hang the tank from.
The best part is that we already have it.
 
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Pinesol also works great for cleaning shit out of neglected carbs. My 1100F's carbs were frozen solid and a week or so soaking in Pinesol made them savable.
 
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Wretch

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bullshit the paint is not available... what do you want to bet color rite has it?
It's all waterborne paints now unlike the thinner/activator cut on it now.

House of Kolors, Kandy Lime Green circa 2000, I think.

I cannot imagine being able to match it without having to repaint it completely.
It was shot by a pro painter friend in a booth.
I did all the primer and prep work on it though.

Candy is easy to fuckup in getting the shade correct/even.
I have trouble with the larger/heavier metal-flake paints in getting it to lay right so...
...I don't fuck with it.
The factory small flake two stage paints were never a problem.

I just need more practice or to relearn the waterborne stuff out there now.
It's cheaper to just let someone else spray it.
 
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Wretch

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Just looking at House of Kolor site shows similar colors but, not the same base, (planet green) used and the flake is an add on which further complicates it.

Not sure how it could be matched without it being a custom mix and certainly not out of a spray bomb.
 

pimpslayer

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Not sure how it could be matched without it being a custom mix and certainly not out of a spray bomb.
This line reminded me that I had painted a bike with Dupli-Color spray cans.

Fender, tank and a tail piece. I used their primer, paint and clear. 15 cans.

Looked good when I was done.

Never again...

Did you know their clear is not fuel resistant? I didn't.

Fuckers...
 

Team222

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POR-15 sells a solution called Metal Prep, IIRC you keep the newly cleaned surface wet for 20 mins or so, a spray bottle is fine. Collect the run off, it's reusable, then let it air dry, should keep it rust free until you coat it.

It's the second step in their 3 step tank sealing kit, Marine Cean is their 1st step, basically an industrial degreaser.
 
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This line reminded me that I had painted a bike with Dupli-Color spray cans.

Fender, tank and a tail piece. I used their primer, paint and clear. 15 cans.

Looked good when I was done.

Never again...

Did you know their clear is not fuel resistant? I didn't.

Fuckers...
And I learned the hard way that rattle can "automotive" primers DO NOT play well with real automotive paint.
 

Team222

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Just looking at House of Kolor site shows similar colors but, not the same base, (planet green) used and the flake is an add on which further complicates it.

Not sure how it could be matched without it being a custom mix and certainly not out of a spray bomb.
I think the ZRXOA website has all the paint codes and other pertinent info for each model year and like most active bike forums they have sub-forums for body and paint and many good and current solutions for your ZRX pleasure.
 
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Wretch

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I think the ZRXOA website has all the paint codes and other pertinent info for each model year and like most active bike forums they have sub-forums for body and paint and many good and current solutions for your ZRX pleasure.
It was a custom paintjob I did nearly 20 years ago.
Not factory.
I should look over there just the same, it's been a long time since I was there.
 

Master-Cylinder

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This is what I'm using today on an old Honda tank. The brown stones are from Mcmaster Carr and purpose made for tumbling. The white rocks I bought at Lowes in the concrete section. Mixing the two together seems to make it really cut.
Still, we're looking at probably 14+ hours on the tumbler. Rotate it front to back for three or more hours. Then back to front for another three hours. Then barrel roll it one way for hours, then the other way for hours. Then I'll Wild Weasel it for awhile.
Annoying as hell to listen to! I took pictures of the inside of the fuel tank before I started on it. We'll see how it looks in a day or two of constant noise from tumbling.

20190516_151747[1].jpg
 
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Wretch

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I'll be hunting media for tumbling this weekend.

I had already figured on the coarse looking white rock but, had not considered using a soft mixed in, thanks!
 

Master-Cylinder

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If that tank isn't almost bone dry inside, don't start tumbling it. It just turns into qwik sand like slurry. It also dampens the the media and doesn't let it scrape the stuff off.
 
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Wretch

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Yeah, the guy kept asking me if I wanted to use the steam cleaner on it and I had to keep telling him; Fuck no! I want it dry!
 
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Wretch

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I'd like to try industrial garnet in the tanks. Good sharp stuff.
I'd bet those would wear the coats of shit off quickly as well as some of the metal.

I've got a gravel pit to visit yet but likely Tuesday before I can get there.
VA has me running in circles since yesterday and won't be finished with me until Monday evening.
Thunderstorms canceled today's mission and I have my daughter here for the weekend so, it's been cooking and watching movies with her.
 

Master-Cylinder

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You get too big of a rock, it can't get into the corners. The semi sharp gravel I used this week came out of the tank nice and rounded off. So it's single use.
 
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