What is your opinion on Liqui-Moly products Motor oil,Additives and Bike care

   #1  
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So the USA rep for Liqui-Moly gave me a bottle of Engine Flush shooter which is used to flush out your motorcycle system of dirty oil deposits. Have anyone used their products. I was told a lot of motorcycle racers in Europe use this product.
 
   #3  

tinhead

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Liqui-moly is the title sponsorship of the Junior Cup in MotoAmerica, for up and coming young guns. I'll buy something they sell that comes with a sticker I can put on the bike or trailer. :up:

The same reason I bought a can of Motul chain lube once.
 
   #4  

fr0st

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Ive seen bikes with 40 60 k miles and no additives ..just rotella t6 and all is well..

Not trying to sell the rotella t6 to anyone but just the fact that with good oil you dont need any oil deposit cleaner..
 
   #6  

BilletMan

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No opinion but wanted to ask you if you use premix for your rotary...?
Are folks doing this? I guess keeping it from munching apex seals is desired. A lot of the 2 stroke oils are very clean burning with minimum carbon generation. You could be looking at catalyst and O2 sensors poisoning.....I have state-of-the-art carbureted 2 strokes with O2 sensor and altitude compensation. I'm using Belray H1-R oil at a scant 80:1 with no problems with the sensor so far. The rotary and them fucking hot, unlubricated, screaching nails-against-the-chalkboard seals live in a most torturous environment. The Wankel rotary is like a helicopter...they SHOULDN'T work, but TONS of effort and money thrown at the problem has somehow produced useable products...
 
   #7  

Master-Cylinder

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If your pile of junk is so full of garbage, no amount of snake oil is going to work.
I took my Ratt Maxx engine apart, 69,000 miles of pure abuse. Except for some soot on the internals, nothing in there that needed to be "flushed out". And the soot is in places the oil never touches.
Maybe it is so clean inside because I always drain the oil with the engine at operating temp.
 
   #8  
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Thats the most fun part about draining oil... Is trying to be smooth enough to move your hand and the drain plug at the same time...

I can do 1 out of every 5 perfect... Tye other times I drop the drain plug... And go fuck... And then I have to wait for the oil to,cool..
 
   #9  

BilletMan

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Oil treatments are bullshit. Slick 50. I fell for one when I was a kid that was called "microlon".....if you understand how hydrodynamic lubrication works, the miracle cures don't make sense. Modern oils are amazing, right out of the bottle! I'll never spend a penny on that snake oil!
 
   #10  

luckystrike

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Are folks doing this? I guess keeping it from munching apex seals is desired. A lot of the 2 stroke oils are very clean burning with minimum carbon generation. You could be looking at catalyst and O2 sensors poisoning.....I have state-of-the-art carbureted 2 strokes with O2 sensor and altitude compensation. I'm using Belray H1-R oil at a scant 80:1 with no problems with the sensor so far. The rotary and them fucking hot, unlubricated, screaching nails-against-the-chalkboard seals live in a most torturous environment. The Wankel rotary is like a helicopter...they SHOULDN'T work, but TONS of effort and money thrown at the problem has somehow produced useable products...
I’ve been working RX7 forums and can’t find a consensus

I imported this RX-7 with 70k miles and knowing a rebuild is in the near future

In the meanwhile wondering if I should bother with premix. Cisco San Jose Cisco San Jose RX7 is two generations older then mine so thought he must be doing something right
 
   #11  

BilletMan

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What's the rebuild interval? Turbocharged certainly doesn't help things. Do you have tools? That would be a fun project to do with your son. Even if you don't do the innards, y'all pluck it out of there and methodically disassemble/store the parts. Get it down to the "long block" and ship it off to the experts for internal rework. That would be a fun project, but maybe a bit much for your soft, uncalloused hands...
 
   #14  

luckystrike

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What's the rebuild interval? Turbocharged certainly doesn't help things. Do you have tools? That would be a fun project to do with your son. Even if you don't do the innards, y'all pluck it out of there and methodically disassemble/store the parts. Get it down to the "long block" and ship it off to the experts for internal rework. That would be a fun project, but maybe a bit much for your soft, uncalloused hands...
It has two hair dryers

A popular mod is going to a single stage turbo for simplicity sake. We will never, ever do something sacrilegious like a LS swap

Don’t know rebuild interval and there are rotaries out there running beyond 125k

I will do at 100k just because I don’t know how Leni (our nickname inspired by a famous film director) was flogged in the past. A downside of buying sight unseen

And no, it’s not something I would contemplate doing myself. The boy has a friend who’s done it to his and I suspect this will be their project
 
   #16  

Wretch

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What's the rebuild interval? Turbocharged certainly doesn't help things. Do you have tools? That would be a fun project to do with your son. Even if you don't do the innards, y'all pluck it out of there and methodically disassemble/store the parts. Get it down to the "long block" and ship it off to the experts for internal rework. That would be a fun project, but maybe a bit much for your soft, uncalloused hands...
Typically factory rotary engines go 120,000 miles and then must be rebuilt.
The hotter the build, the shorter the lifespan as is expected.
At least that was the rule when I worked for Mazda in the late 80's early 90's.
We did not overhaul rotaries there but would R&R a replacement, sending the core back to the factory.

Not hard to do the work but, lots of room for mistakes/fuckups as they are complicated as to what seals/wipers go where and the tolerances need to be exactly right.
Lots of shit to keep track of.
 
   #18  

BilletMan

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No he didn't rebuild the engine...his definition of "restore" isn't the same as others'......notice the smileys?
Faintly yes I do

But I thought that was body work only, no?

I’ll look for a thread once I’m off my fucking phone
 
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   #21  

Terry_Schiavo

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Seafoam
or Berryman's Engine Flush
what in the ever loviing fuck??? Its called kerosene... dump a quart or 3 in a completely full crankcase of old oil.
Run engine @idle for 10-15 mins with no load... dump contents and let drain for an hour or 2. Refill with quality synthetic motor oil... be done.
 
   #22  

Master-Cylinder

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what in the ever loviing fuck??? Its called kerosene... dump a quart or 3 in a completely full crankcase of old oil.
Run engine @idle for 10-15 mins with no load... dump contents and let drain for an hour or 2. Refill with quality synthetic motor oil... be done.
Wait until it is fully cooled, then drain it?
 
   #23  

rumble phish

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Howabout just changing the used kick-ass oil for new kick-ass oil? Don't over-think this stuff and don't introduce strange stuff that ain't related to kick-ass oil, eh?!
Absolutely agreed.

My mention of Seafoam or Berryman's is for when one acquires a vehicle that has been neglected.

I believe in changing motor oil every 3,000 miles of every 6 months, whether I "think" it needs it or not. Cheap insurance. Also, if one keeps it changed often one needn't use the fanciest oil out there. A decent, inexpensive semi or even conventional will do the trick, as long as you're not wringing the piss out of it every chance you get.

Another key is to use a superior filter. Fram is complete shit. Wix, Motorcraft, and Mobil 1 are quality (as are Napa Gold filters, which are made by and identical to Wix). If one uses a decent filter one could skip changing the filter every other oil change.
 
   #25  

rumble phish

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what in the ever loviing fuck??? Its called kerosene... dump a quart or 3 in a completely full crankcase of old oil.
Run engine @idle for 10-15 mins with no load... dump contents and let drain for an hour or 2. Refill with quality synthetic motor oil... be done.
This works too :up:
 
   #26  

BilletMan

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Nope. Never had a lubrication related failure...Fram filter, modern full synthetic oil, change it at 10,000 miles....works great, that's what's in the owner's manual, too.....If I can pay a bit more for synthetic that lasts 3.33 times longer, I'm all over that....I have other stuff to do than change oil...
 
   #29  

rumble phish

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Nope. Never had a lubrication related failure...Fram filter, modern full synthetic oil, change it at 10,000 miles....works great, that's what's in the owner's manual, too.....If I can pay a bit more for synthetic that lasts 3.33 times longer, I'm all over that....I have other stuff to do than change oil...
I've seen Fram oil filters fail and come apart (in two of my family's vehicles over the years), so I'll not be using them ever again. They literally have cardboard in them, and one of the smallest filtration mediums in modern filters today. But don't take my word for it, as there are literally dozens of legit YouTube videos about them.
 
   #30  

BilletMan

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Yeah, whatever. I've never had a failure....
 
   #31  

wormser77

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what in the ever loviing fuck??? Its called kerosene... dump a quart or 3 in a completely full crankcase of old oil.
Run engine @idle for 10-15 mins with no load... dump contents and let drain for an hour or 2. Refill with quality synthetic motor oil... be done.
I knew a guy with an old Chevy truck with a small block that would do this but with diesel that claimed 1/2 million miles without it being apart😲 I thought the guy was nuts, he was also a die hard amsoil guy.

I do run Lucas oil fuel treatment in my dodge v10...piece of mind I guess.
 
   #32  

hagrid

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There are a shit-ton of Koehler engines, circa the '70s, that are splash lubricated and unfiltered.

Still thumpin and not burning any oil.
 
   #42  
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I’ve been working RX7 forums and can’t find a consensus

I imported this RX-7 with 70k miles and knowing a rebuild is in the near future

In the meanwhile wondering if I should bother with premix. Cisco San Jose Cisco San Jose RX7 is two generations older then mine so thought he must be doing something right
Castro GTX 20/50 oil the whole entire RX7 life from the beginning.

A friend of mind recommended that I use GTX 20/50 since he use to race his RX3 and that was the oil that he used.
 
   #47  

Master-Cylinder

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I just pickup up some Marvel Mystery Oil, according to the label, it does everything!

I use it to lube cables.
 
   #48  

tinhead

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Will Marvel Mystery Oil keep the eggs from sticking to the griddle?
Is it better than than Lorenzo's oil?

(Schiavo might actually be inspecting somethng, I'm picking up the slack)
 
   #49  

DaCat

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Once again, it's mixing oils of different types and brands that is the issue. The additives within them can cause issues.

Even on machinery, once I use a brand and type, I would never change to another brand or type for as long as I did the maintenance.

The above info served me well and still does.

As for filters, the older the filter the better.... I will let that comment sink in for a while. Think about it.
 
   #50  

Wretch

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I think these guys might have some ideas on what to run in your rotary:

 
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