Used 4x4s

   #51  

Stetson

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I just looked, zero LX 470s on CL in Maine, dealer or private! Two popped up from Boston. Either nobody up here gets rid of them, or nobody could afford them!
 
   #54  

hagrid

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They included a snap of the belt service decal. Looks legit.
 
   #55  
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Rhino

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Looked at a 101k mile 2004 that they wanted 6k for today. .. fucking thing was sunk in the ocean.. the seat rails where rusted frozen.. the under body actually had falling rust sitting under where it was parked. ..

The search continues
 
   #56  

CZLoco

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Get one of those COOL old school Range Rovers and toss a Diesel engine into it.

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   #57  

Vegas12

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They included a snap of the belt service decal. Looks legit.

Lexus actually has an owner database showing maintenance. (if done by a Lexus dealer obviously)

Wife's '02 only had 105,00 on it when I bought it, Lexus website showed all sorts of required maintenance that had been done including timing belt, recalls etc..

I'm all in on her car in the $5k range.....would have been $12k if it didn't have a rebuilt title.

Looking to do the same on a LX470> Screenshot_20190927-180203_Messages.jpg Screenshot_20190927-180222_Messages.jpg
 
   #58  
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Rhino

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   #59  

TOPENDXX

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Dude that is pure ugliness. And NOTHING I own or drive is looking like it belongs in Aficia bush country.

Even though I'm going cheap.. I want something I can park in my neighborhood with out the neighbors calling the NY sanitation to take away.
I picked up a 2014 GMC Sierra ZR71 with the bullet proof 5.3L
 
   #60  
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Rhino

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It's down to an 02 fourunner with 82k miles for 6k

Or an 08 jeep GC in mint condition with 38k miles for 10k .. double my price but I'm really finding total crap... it's amazing what people will drive and sell.
 
   #61  

BigGar

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Why don't you come out for the track day at Thunderhill and buy something here. I wouldn't touch a 10+ year old east coast car with a 29 1/2 foot pole. Your resale on a "California" car would be crazy good as well. Rust is completely insane and I can't even imagine dealing with it on anything. Come out west and quick fucking around with garbage..
 
   #62  

Terry_Schiavo

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yah...fly into SMF or EUG or SAN or SFO
jet blue had some giod flights
 
   #67  
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Rhino

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Found and bought this 81k mile limited with a 4.0 for $3.1k ... I'll post a pic after a few weeks of repairs, detailing and improvements.
 
   #69  
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Rhino

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Only issue I see, leaking valve cover gasket.. ABS light is on .. front brakes and rotors are needed but I'll do all four because he went with some after market crap.. , remote for side view mirrors don't work (I can live with out that) right rear window does not work (common solenoid issue) .. Drivers seat is WELL used and one of the motors in the power seat adjusting is not working..

Ran it for over and hour no over heating.. 4x4 select track works in all modes.. AC/heat check out all good.

I felt a bit bad buying this truck.. the owner has a mentally challange kid and the kid was HIGHLY upset that they are selling his truck... I reassured him I'll take great care of it and Illl even take him and his dad for ice cream in the summer time. He was happy about that for all about four minutes then got upset again. They bought a brand new GC but he wants the one he had since he was a baby. :(
 
   #70  

Team222

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The noise l'm referring to is a ticking noise that comes and goes and you would swear it's a lifter or tappet but a lot of the 4.0s do it and it's just annoying but not a performance issue or a forewarning of an impending doom.
 
   #71  
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Rhino

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Those 4.0 seem pretty decent. I been looking at these truck the last month and most have over 170k with some as high as 250k miles and still going
 
   #73  

Team222

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Those 4.0 seem pretty decent. I been looking at these truck the last month and most have over 170k with some as high as 250k miles and still going
My wife's 04 GC has the 4.0, 225k, it's been sitting in my driveway for a year, bought a used GC Summit last year to replace it. That 04 we have owned since 08 and has been a great vehicle and will make someone else a decent high mileage used car, I just need to do a few things to it before I throw it on CL. One weak link on that era of Chrysler's is the goofy casings on the wiring, it's gets brittle and will crack at the wire bundle that is between the frt fender and door because of the constant flexing when opening the driver door.
 
   #74  
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My wife's 04 GC has the 4.0, 225k, it's been sitting in my driveway for a year, ...need to do a few things to it before I throw it on CL.
How bad is the rust? I'm half-assed looking for a 4x4 for my daughter to get back and forth to school in the snow. She has had her license for 2(?) months, so this will be her first winter of driving.
I live on top of a hill in the snow capital of the state, so I'm worried about what this is going to turn into.
On one hand, I don't want a shit heap that's too rusty to wrench on.
On the other hand, I need a shit heap that is cheap to insure and no big loss if she totals it.
 
   #75  
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Rhino

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My wife's 04 GC has the 4.0, 225k, it's been sitting in my driveway for a year, bought a used GC Summit last year to replace it. That 04 we have owned since 08 and has been a great vehicle and will make someone else a decent high mileage used car, I just need to do a few things to it before I throw it on CL. One weak link on that era of Chrysler's is the goofy casings on the wiring, it's gets brittle and will crack at the wire bundle that is between the frt fender and door because of the constant flexing when opening the driver door.
That has already been fixed.. judging from the bundle if wires I see sticking through the rubber.
 
   #76  
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Rhino

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How bad is the rust? I'm half-assed looking for a 4x4 for my daughter to get back and forth to school in the snow. She has had her license for 2(?) months, so this will be her first winter of driving.
I live on top of a hill in the snow capital of the state, so I'm worried about what this is going to turn into.
On one hand, I don't want a shit heap that's too rusty to wrench on.
On the other hand, I need a shit heap that is cheap to insure and no big loss if she totals it.

Under body and frame is mint no beach travel.. but finding a clean model with less then 100 k under 4k was a EXTREMLY hard challenge.. I must have looked at over 1000 old jeeps ... between the high milage and insane asking prices for a winter/beach truck I was giving up hope and almost bought a newer truck for 9k... finding a street parked reliable vehicle that I can use on the beach and snow got be a game.. a big waste of time looking at money pits and offering half the asking price was getting me now where. I wish you luck finding her one.
 
   #77  
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Under body and frame is mint no beach travel.. but finding a clean model with less then 100 k under 4k was a EXTREMLY hard challenge... I wish you luck finding her one.
Thanks Rhino, I'm not really looking for a Jeep because I think they generally are rattle-traps and I despise the way they rust, but was thinking maybe I'd roll the dice on Team222's GC if it wasn't too far gone. It's hard to find anything decent for a decent price. I've been watching Ranger 4x4 ads but haven't seen anything worth the drive to look at.
I'd like to have a Suburban 4x4 for myself, but if I lent it to my 17 year old, she would destroy a large swath of everything between her and the front door at the school. She bangs into shit with her LeSabre... so size is an issue. Lots of issues for me to consider!
 
   #78  

Team222

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That has already been fixed.. judging from the bundle if wires I see sticking through the rubber.
Other usual suspects are the blend door for the heater and the skid plate for the gas tank, the blend door will strip from the shaft, you know it's bad if you hear clicking from the dash after you shut off the vehicle as the door tries to go back to its home position, skid plates just rust out because of the salt and crude that gets trapped between the tank and plate. There are fixes out there for both the problems again this stuff is pretty much universal and the Jeep cottage industry is huge.
 
   #79  

Team222

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Thanks Rhino, I'm not really looking for a Jeep because I think they generally are rattle-traps and I despise the way they rust, but was thinking maybe I'd roll the dice on Team222's GC if it wasn't too far gone. It's hard to find anything decent for a decent price. I've been watching Ranger 4x4 ads but haven't seen anything worth the drive to look at.
I'd like to have a Suburban 4x4 for myself, but if I lent it to my 17 year old, she would destroy a large swath of everything between her and the front door at the school. She bangs into shit with her LeSabre... so size is an issue. Lots of issues for me to consider!
PM me or whatever it's called nowadays and I'll get back to you tomorrow.
 
   #80  

Rocco

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The noise l'm referring to is a ticking noise that comes and goes and you would swear it's a lifter or tappet but a lot of the 4.0s do it and it's just annoying but not a performance issue or a forewarning of an impending doom.

There are two common contributing faults on the 4.0 engine that produce a simulated and hard to find ticking noise. The exhaust manifold developing a small crack is the most common. Also even though it may sound strange, a flex plate crack, comes in second for the metallic noise. Otherwise- sometimes a valve is seating wrong and a head rebuild is required even on lower mileage engines, or once in a while a 4.0 has piston slap that also produces the metal on metal sound. On high mileage engines all of the normal causes apply. The Jeep 4.0 engines can last a long time and rebuilds are not hard. Stroker kits are available if you want to up the fun.
 
   #81  
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'99 XJ. Trying to decide what to do with this. I hardly drive it, and refuse to drive it here in the winter since it has no rust. Bought it in FL in '04, moved to AZ in '05, then moved up here to VT in '15. 165k miles, mostly as my daily until '08. I keep kicking around the idea to sell it, but don't know what I'd replace it with.

Super clean for being 20 years old, no rust. One bad spot on the paint over the windshield but surprisingly good shape considering it's a Chrysler, lol. Still runs great.

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   #82  

Rocco

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Matt, what does it get for gas mileage? I have a similar build on my 2001 XJ, but I can't top 13 mpg, either city or highway
 
   #83  
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Matt, what does it get for gas mileage? I have a similar build on my 2001 XJ, but I can't top 13 mpg, either city or highway
I get about the same mileage as it sits there in the picture. Best I ever got when it was completely stock was 19mpg.

4.0s, great engines, but thirsty little buggers. We had Wranglers at work that would eat more gas idling than they did driving around (literally would idle 24/7, and only moved to go fuel up).
 
   #84  

rumble phish

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13 mpg!? Something is seriously fucked with that motor. My 78 CJ-5 with 33"s, 304 V8 and a three speed manual got 15 mpg!

My Money Pit gets 19 on the freeway.
 
   #85  

Rocco

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13 mpg!? Something is seriously fucked with that motor. My 78 CJ-5 with 33"s, 304 V8 and a three speed manual got 15 mpg

Plus it's got the advanced computer controlled distributor-less ignition w/ SMPI. Even with the higher tech, the EPA combined estimate is 17 avg on that model. The base weight is something like 3200#, so it moves pretty good with the small 4.0, but still no cigar for gas mileage. If Matt is getting the same gas mileage, then it's the suspension lift drag and big tires pulling it down. I also have an early 2 door full size Yukon/Blazer with a 6.0 conversion, that's chipped/ with a cam. That Yukon get's 15 mpg all day long and will pass every other truck on the road with it's power build up. It's all about design.
 
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Rhino

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Got ride of the Bling bling 20 inch tires and put a set of 08 rims from my 08 grand Cherokee with a set Blizzarks for winter use. Next up is all for Disks and Pads and a rear ABS sensor... I'm kinda pissed I have to go after market on the Disks and Pads as Jeep discontinued making them for the 04 GC... I think I'm going EBC Drilled slotted disks and Green pads... unless some has a better approach.
 

rumble phish

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Got ride of the Bling bling 20 inch tires and put a set of 08 rims from my 08 grand Cherokee with a set Blizzarks for winter use. Next up is all for Disks and Pads and a rear ABS sensor... I'm kinda pissed I have to go after market on the Disks and Pads as Jeep discontinued making them for the 04 GC... I think I'm going EBC Drilled slotted disks and Green pads... unless some has a better approach.
I've used discs and the Z23 pads from Powerstop, as well as discs and the carbon/metallic pads from Max Advanced. Been extremely happy with both. Just purchased all new rotors and pads for the Money Pit from Max Advanced, and new calipers as well. Got the "Elite" coated rotors and the M1 carbon/ceramic pads for a steal on Amazon!

Check them out. Great reviews and I can personally attest to the quality. And half the price of the EBC's.
 

CZLoco

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I went with aftermarket solid rotors (not slotted/drilled) and hybrid pads.
The drilled/slotted rotors just don't seem to have good long-term reviews for anything other than racing vehicles. And the hybrid pads seem to last a long time without producing tons of brake dust.
Brake dust SUCKS and is common on many "high performance" pads.

SummitRacing.com is a good source for reviews on this type of product.
Amazon has tons of reviews also, but mostly from homers or people who have no idea what they're talking about or leave feedback after the first five miles.
 
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Rhino

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I don't trust online reviews.. WAY to many paid for reviews these days.. I like to talk with people who have great results with the packages they went with in the real world of use... I'm a bit picky on brakes.. I'll be pulling a small trailer for the bike from time to time so need great stopping power. I also have to go through a 30 mile radius of NYC traffic ANY time I travel... Normally I would use oem.. and only oem as it's pretty hard to beat oem .. however the oem disks where known to warp easily on this version of the GCs.

The slots on the disks will clean the pads of debris in certain conditions... the drilled holes will keep the disks a bit cooler in my type of driving...but you do risk a warpage as well as rusting on cheaper disk materials.

I don't look to save money on brakes, tires, and lighting on vehicles.. I simply want the best I can get with out getting hosed when buying them..
 

rumble phish

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Well, I don't like EBC. I had a pretty horrible experience with their sintered metallic pads and discs on my Busa at the track. Literally set the front brakes on fire. Switched to Vesrah pads and back to stock discs and never looked back.
 

rumble phish

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I went with aftermarket solid rotors (not slotted/drilled) and hybrid pads.
The drilled/slotted rotors just don't seem to have good long-term reviews for anything other than racing vehicles. And the hybrid pads seem to last a long time without producing tons of brake dust.
Brake dust SUCKS and is common on many "high performance" pads.

SummitRacing.com is a good source for reviews on this type of product.
Amazon has tons of reviews also, but mostly from homers or people who have no idea what they're talking about or leave feedback after the first five miles.
Metallic pads will leave a shit ton of dust, but they'll stop you better than any other pad. The Carbon/Metallic pads from Max Advanced do leave some dust, but not as much as other metallic pads. Ceramic pads leave virtually no dust, but don't stop nearly as well as metallics and can compress slightly giving a "mushy" feel. Carbon Fiber/Ceramic pads are a good compromise between both worlds, giving you "similar" stopping power of a metallic, but without the compression and with no dust and lower temps.

Drilled slotted rotors don't really add much, and can actually be less effective if you do a lot of wheeling (rocks/mud getting stuck in the slots/holes and fucking up the pads). The only reasons I went with them were the killer price and the fact that i'll be towing more than I'll be wheeling (and I've learned NOT to play in the mud, as it gets reaaaaal expensive).

Plus, they do look cool.
 
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Rhino

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That mushy feel.is what I have now.. very uninspiring in hard city stops. I never used anything but stock pads after I put a set of Wagner pads on my 96 Tahoe and that fucking thing would not stop. I took them off put a stock oem set of pads on and it stopped well again.. ever since I been using stock.. I can give Power shots a shot ... I was reading that most jeep guys have good things to say about the EBC . I don't care about brake dust I want stopping power...

Talking of brake dust my CTS V is the worst car I ever owned in regards to brake dust.. I can have dusted wheels in four stops ... I just wipe wheels off after every drive when i put it in the garage.
 

rumble phish

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You definitely want metallic pads. The Max Advance carbon/metallic pads are some of the best pads I've used on the street, if the dust doesn't bother you (doesn't bother me either).
 

Master-Cylinder

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I have a pretty good sized pile of old pressure treated 4x4's. Local dump won't take them, I'd have to go on a forty mile road trip to dispose of them.
 
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