Unhappy Ford Bronco wants GT40 heads

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Master-Cylinder

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Oh my agrawrd.... I did not know this was a thing.
This will be perfect for my 100-piece $10 drill bits!!!


6:40PM still waiting for Amazon to deliver my left-hand bits.
Already drinking though so I'm done for the night.
Takes some practice to get it right using the Drill Doc, but it works. It needs the angle adjuster beefed up a little because it moves around a wee bit.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Not this time, MC!

Gonna need to sew my wallet up after this though.
I didn't have a warm & fuzzy feeling about just replacing the intake gaskets.
So I ended up taking myself into new heads after all.

They're an off brand, cast in Australia and machined/assembled in USA.
Aluminum, flow a bit better than GT40 heads.
Made for TQ/HP from 0-5500 RPM, perfect for a truck.

$700 shipped (plus tax) from SummitRacing after using their CyberMonday deal.
Should arrive by Wednesday.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flk-203-505

They got a real nice review in this comparison test from Hot Rod magazine:
Six Budget Ford Heads That Work - Car Craft Magazine

They're the yellow column below.
Compared vs the Twisted Wedge in brown column.
The Edelbrock heads aren't compatible with my roller block and the ones they make that are compatible, are like $1600 :eek:
1575337227506.png
 
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Master-Cylinder

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Alright! New crank, rods and pistons coming up next! And an intake. And cam and lifters. And timing set. And full gasket set. And you can't bolt that old water pump back on, after buying all this nice new stuff! Or oil pump for that matter. Or ignition!
Then trade it in for a Bravada.
 

LURCH

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I knew a group of Australians that came over to the States every summer to do dirt track circle track IMCA racing. They loved them some 351 Fords. Windsor or Cleveland...one bought a Cleveland from me that was out of my first modified race car. I made twice what I paid for the whole car on the motor. He shipped it back to Australia...
Those dudes could slam some beer...
 

Wretch

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I might have tried a bit of localized heat on the head around the hole if attempting that route.

Still might help in getting that fucker out.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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I don't need to get it out anymore. Gonna toss those heads.
I just wanted to get the experience with using the bolt extractor tools.
New heads should be here in a day or two. :up:

I still have one more bolt I may try to extract. :)
 

Master-Cylinder

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Not the type of tool you want to "cheap out" on, that end result was predictable. Listen to MC, he's been there done that in just about everything (except KTM wrist pin locks)
Now that I've done one KTM wrist pin clip (and made the tool from scratch using precision guesswork) I'm an expert on them.
 

Master-Cylinder

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By the way, they make "EZ Out" extractors. From what I remeber, they make them in three and two flute. I think I saw them in McMaster-Carr.
 

Master-Cylinder

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I thought you were going with spiral extractors, per Snail's suggestion. Those cheap, brittle pieces of crap you bought have no ability to do anything except break!
And like someone else mentioned, those thing can sometimes make the bolt you drilled expand and make it even tighter.
I only use extractors on loose bolts, or at least loose enough I know they'll come out.
 

Wretch

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Tap each head bolt lightly with a 32oz ball peen hammer and a drift, three times while speaking the words: "O Wah, Tegue, Siam" softly and wearing a grass skirt and Ford Blue face paint on half your face...
...left side if you're right handed and right side if you're left handed.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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:eek:
One's guys method of removing head bolts. Different style bolts, different engine entirely, yet maybe worth a 5-minute watch:

The "click". Yeah, I heard that with the lower intake bolts that broke.
I guess I should have hammed on it a second time after the first click, like he did in that video. Thanks for sharing it. :up:

Did not know head bolts could be an issue.
I'll start Googling that for 351W now.
 

GSXRTURBO1

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Tap each head bolt lightly with a 32oz ball peen hammer and a drift, three times while speaking the words: "O Wah, Tegue, Siam" softly and wearing a grass skirt and Ford Blue face paint on half your face...
...left side if you're right handed and right side if you're left handed.
another one that may work, the great oh wah tahna Siam
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Are new, slightly higher-flowing heads going to cause an issue for a still-mostly-healthy (I think) block that only needs to go another 4-7k miles before it gets replaced too?
What sort of issues should I be weary of?

I spent money I don't have yet, just to pay for the heads.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Block gets replaced with next year's bonus.
Which is only 4-7K miles away from now.
I have averaged 4.5k miles a year for the last several years.
 
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CZLoco

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Give me a nice block, engine hoist and stand. I'll do it right now.
Oh heck.
Christmas blocks aren't a thing yet.
Doh

:fu: :fu: from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

Rhino

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Fuck you
Block gets replaced with next year's bonus.
Which is only 4-7K miles away from now.
I have averaged 4.5k miles a year for the last several years.
I put more miles on my scooter in a year..


You need to travel more my friend.. it's a great big world out there. ;)
 
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CZLoco

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Ahh, that totally makes sense.

Originally Posted by wwhite

New head gasket, new heads, smaller chambers, nice new sealed valves, there is going to be more cylinder pressure than there was before.
This newly introduced cylinder pressure is what can cause the bottom end to fail.

First, you may notice that you are burning more oil, as the increased cylinder pressure 'may' cause more blow-by.
More blow-by past your rings, gets in your oil, now you have bad oil.

This really depends on the condition of the bottom end.

Oh, one more thing to check once you get your old heads off, make sure the deck is flat.
You don't want to be putting those nice shinny new heads on a warped block.
I'm gonna flip the coin though.
4-8K miles more is all I'm asking.
And if my block is still as healthy as I think it is, I think that'll work out just fine. :up:

If I had the cash and time to do everything the way I want, then I would.
I just don't. :)
 

Terry_Schiavo

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so youre infusing the broko forum advice with what you received here?? GTFO :fu: What are you determining health with? Oil pressure? Bearing clearances? How do you propose to verify the deck is indeed "flat" ??
 

WarpSpeed

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Eddie, speaking to you like an experienced older brother now. No teasing or taunting or wise-cracking just because we're "here" and we fucking torment everyone for damned near any reason...

Squeeze the budget however you need and just buy a long block. You're burning up a bunch of time and good money on your very uncertain and most likely worn out short block. The fewer times you have to open up an engine, the better. Less chance of contaminants getting in, less chance of worn out, corroded and weakened bolts fucking things up. Buy the long block and be done with it.

How much money could you be earning with all the dozens of saved hours just doing this job once, the right way?
 

Rhino

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Jim is giving sound advice.. I seen many of my friends try to put fresh upper ends blow the bottom ends on motors. Just keep it stock.. drive until money develops then by a complete motor set up and one weekend switch them.
 
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CZLoco

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so youre infusing the broko forum advice with what you received here?? GTFO :fu: What are you determining health with? Oil pressure? Bearing clearances? How do you propose to verify the deck is indeed "flat" ??
I did an earl pressure test a few months ago while t/s a separate issue.
The pressure looked really good!
I don't remember the numbers, and it wasn't a test designed to do anything other than verify I had oil pressure. But I remember the #'s being higher than I expected.

I do have this in my shopping cart.
I was going to buy it for the heads.
Maybe I should buy it for the block deck also.


Thanks, guys. I listen to everyone.
I make my own opinions, but you all help me form them. :up:
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Jim is giving sound advice.. I seen many of my friends try to put fresh upper ends blow the bottom ends on motors. Just keep it stock.. drive until money develops then by a complete motor set up and one weekend switch them.
Weird thing is, stock head rebuild was more expensive than brand new aluminum as-cast heads that can be ported and rebuilt next time to make even more HP than the 20-30 TQ improvement the GT40X clones may get me.
Not anywhere close to the primo heads available these days.
But maybe a little more zip. :up:
 
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