Then trade it in for a Bravada.Alright! New crank, rods and pistons coming up next! And an intake. And cam and lifters. And timing set. And full gasket set. And you can't bolt that old water pump back on, after buying all this nice new stuff! Or oil pump for that matter. Or ignition!
Now that I've done one KTM wrist pin clip (and made the tool from scratch using precision guesswork) I'm an expert on them.Not the type of tool you want to "cheap out" on, that end result was predictable. Listen to MC, he's been there done that in just about everything (except KTM wrist pin locks)
And like someone else mentioned, those thing can sometimes make the bolt you drilled expand and make it even tighter.I thought you were going with spiral extractors, per Snail's suggestion. Those cheap, brittle pieces of crap you bought have no ability to do anything except break!
The "click". Yeah, I heard that with the lower intake bolts that broke.
One's guys method of removing head bolts. Different style bolts, different engine entirely, yet maybe worth a 5-minute watch:
another one that may work, the great oh wah tahna SiamTap each head bolt lightly with a 32oz ball peen hammer and a drift, three times while speaking the words: "O Wah, Tegue, Siam" softly and wearing a grass skirt and Ford Blue face paint on half your face...
...left side if you're right handed and right side if you're left handed.
I'm gonna flip the coin though.Originally Posted by wwhite
New head gasket, new heads, smaller chambers, nice new sealed valves, there is going to be more cylinder pressure than there was before.
This newly introduced cylinder pressure is what can cause the bottom end to fail.
First, you may notice that you are burning more oil, as the increased cylinder pressure 'may' cause more blow-by.
More blow-by past your rings, gets in your oil, now you have bad oil.
This really depends on the condition of the bottom end.
Oh, one more thing to check once you get your old heads off, make sure the deck is flat.
You don't want to be putting those nice shinny new heads on a warped block.
I did an earl pressure test a few months ago while t/s a separate issue.so youre infusing the broko forum advice with what you received here?? GTFO What are you determining health with? Oil pressure? Bearing clearances? How do you propose to verify the deck is indeed "flat" ??
Weird thing is, stock head rebuild was more expensive than brand new aluminum as-cast heads that can be ported and rebuilt next time to make even more HP than the 20-30 TQ improvement the GT40X clones may get me.Jim is giving sound advice.. I seen many of my friends try to put fresh upper ends blow the bottom ends on motors. Just keep it stock.. drive until money develops then by a complete motor set up and one weekend switch them.