Unhappy Ford Bronco wants GT40 heads

   #251  

BilletMan

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You got lucky that the sensor seals axially, rather than a radially-sealing pipe thread. One of the few scenarios where an easy-out works....:up:
 
   #255  
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Got some work done on the Bronco today.

You asked for pix of the lower intake manifold that busted.
The shiny one on the right is the first one that broke.
The nasty one on the left is the second front bolt that broke today. :(
The two rear bolts came out fine, as did the rest.
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The left front bolt.
I know of no way to get this out easily.
I'm sure someone here does?
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The right front bolt is even worse.
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Didn't catch a picture of it, but the thermostat housing gasket didn't look real awesome.
 
   #257  
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CZLoco

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A leaf and a couple twigs :lol:
I didn't clean off the top of the manifold before lifting it out.
 
   #259  
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CZ's breakage is way worse than yours...
No doubt, for several reasons. Soft metal, no corrosion, I didn't even need to break out the drill... center hole was already there for me. Still sucked, though!
And it went in like pipe thread. If I didn't need to seat that copper washer, I would have stopped tightening long before it broke. The old one came out clean, threads in the block aren't fucked up. Busted new one came out clean.

Can only turn it maybe an eighth of a turn at a time, with a crow foot. I'm not a fan of any part of the design of this pig.
 
   #260  

tinhead

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Easy peasy CZ.:ducmanic:

You have a drill guide, the manifold itself. Re-mount the lower intake, then use a drill (split point preferred) that just fits in the hole in the manifold, use it to cut a clean center in the broken off bolts (one looks like a stud not a bolt but why quibble?) Use penetrating oil for cutting lubricant, any heat generated will help it penetrate.

Remove the manifold and clean all the chips and rust crud out of the hole, re-mount the manifold. Get a (split point if possible) left hand twist drill that's the proper tap drill size, and drill a little at a time. Drill, clean chips from hole, re-oil, drill, repeat until it's gone, or the drill grabs it and it backs the remnant out. If/when that happens is why you don't want a shitload of chips in there.

Off with the manifold, run the proper tap in there, presto!
 
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   #261  

BilletMan

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That's some great advice right there! Who would have ever thought that tinhead actually DOES have valuable stuff hidden deep within his liberally soaked brain? :up::up::up::up::up:
Easy peasy CZ.:ducmanic:

You have a drill guide, the manifold itself. Re-mount the lower intake, then use a drill (split point preferred) that just fits in the hole in the manifold, use it to cut a clean center in the broken off bolts (one looks like a stud not a bolt but why quibble?) Use penetrating oil for cutting lubricant, any heat generated will help it penetrate.

Remove the manifold and clean all the chips and rust crud out of the hole, re-mount the manifold. Get a (split point if possible) left hand twist drill that's the proper tap drill size, and drill a little at a time. Drill, clean chips from hole, re-oil, drill, repeat until it's gone, or the drill grabs it and it backs the remnant out. If/when that happens is why you don't want a shitload of chips in there.

Off with the manifold, run the proper tap in there, presto!



Then re penetrate oil them overnight at least.
 
   #262  

BilletMan

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Not to be a buzz-kill, but it IS long-block time....Just do it! Skip all of the dreamy shit you wanna do....put a finely remanufactured engine in it and go drive it...:neo:
 
   #263  

BilletMan

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Bullshit. That looks fantastic. Gone is the 3/8" thick layer of sludge in the lifter valley? Modern oil is working well, as evidenced by his photo...ain't no sludge in there....:smashtard:

Gahhhh! Filth encrusted internally lubed components!!

Is that a leaf!?
 
   #265  
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CZLoco

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You have a drill guide, the manifold itself. Re-mount the lower intake, then use a drill (split point preferred) that just fits in the hole in the manifold, use it to cut a clean center in the broken off bolts (one looks like a stud not a bolt but why quibble?) Use penetrating oil for cutting lubricant, any heat generated will help it penetrate.
Hey, that was genius. Thanks!
A 13/32 fit the pilot hole in the manifold just perfectly.
Though I started out with a 3/8 because I didn't realize I also had a 13/32.
Anyhow, even just a general-use bit seems to be creating a dimple in the top of the studs. Cool beans.
An extractor set is cheap enough to buy.
Thought I had one but I can't find it.
 
   #266  
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CZLoco

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Get your shop vac out
:lol:
I knew better but let the excitement of seeing the broken bolts studs get the better of me.
I was hoping to see a lot of thread sticking out though.
 
   #269  
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CZLoco

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I guess the important dilemma is: Do you believe your intake is leaking coolant into the engine. Doesn't look like it to me. Might want to pull the heads anyway. This job is snowballing.
IDK, I'm out of my knowledge depth with troubleshooting something like this.
 
   #270  

tinhead

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Here's a tip from someone who has removed plenty of broken bolts. Mostly 5mm mixture screws in carbs and a shit load of KZ900/1000 intake manifold bolts. I even made a drill jig for the KZ900/1000 bolt holes because so many people break them off and then come crawling in for help. Drill the bolt all the way out, and if you did it right, you can just run a tap thru the threads. DO NOT TRY TO USE AN EZ OUT, YOU BREAK THAT HARDENED THING OFF IN THERE AND YOU JUST MADE THE JOB 100 TIMES WORSE!. And if you monkey up the threads too much, Heli-Coil it.
 
   #271  

LE05BUSA

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15/64" will put you .010" wall thickness/side and should come out with minimal resistance if you soaked it well. I'm not a fan of the screw type extractor, I much prefer the tapered type. If it doesn't come loose easily, don't force it. Last option would be what MC suggested, drill it to the minor diameter. A .257 ("F" drill) is the minor for 5/16-18", so don't drill bigger than 1/4", because you probably won't be perfectly centered.
 
   #272  

Master-Cylinder

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When I drill carb mixture screws out, I have to drill them right to the danger point then use a small chisel I made from a scribe tip to chip the left over brass off the walls of the hole, that how seized they are. I do them free hand at the junkyard, use the mill at the house.
 
   #273  

hagrid

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Bullshit. That looks fantastic. Gone is the 3/8" thick layer of sludge in the lifter valley? Modern oil is working well, as evidenced by his photo...ain't no sludge in there....:smashtard:
Put your glasses on and re-evaluate. Untold quantities of filth have fallen upon internally lubed components.

Including a weaf.
 
   #274  
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CZLoco

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The bolts are 5/16-18

Soak in penetrant for a day and drill with 15/64 and use an extractor
So this:

...and this together?

If I order within two-hours, I can get both of them today as part of free Prime shipping.
 
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   #275  
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CZLoco

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While Googling tapered, I saw a pic of something I inherited from my dad that's been in my toolbox ever since.


:fu: :fu: from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
   #276  
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CZLoco

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Cleaned it up on the bench grinders wire wheel.
Sitting on top of the size stud I'm having issues with.


:fu: :fu: from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
   #277  

Snail

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Eddie. Serious, if you break an easy out, or a fluted extractor inside the head you will cry big tears.

Do what tin suggested, then do what mc suggested (drill successive larger drills until you're close to the threads) use a judicial application of weasel piss THEN use the appropriate extractor. Put that relic away, it looks like trouble.
 
   #278  

tinhead

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A use is enlarging holes in sheet metal, where a twist drill would snag and slice the hand holding it open.
 
   #279  

Snail

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Even experienced mechanics cringe at the task you're attempting.
 
   #281  
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CZLoco

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THEN use the appropriate extractor.
What is the appropriate extractor?
Can someone post a pic of what you're talking about, because there are many types and I keep hearing "no, not that one" but.. ??
 
   #282  

Snail

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Well, I've broken all types, the spiral tapered ones like in the first set of Amazon is probably the most robust type.

Good luck be patient I've had days when getting just one broken bolt for an entire days work was a success. 22mm grade 8 bolts dont drill easy.
 
   #283  
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CZLoco

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Gracias. :)

Just bought these two.
Should be here later this evening so I can work on it tomorrow.

I found a couple 1/8 left-hand drill bits in my toolbox and may start with those in the meantime.


 
   #285  

BilletMan

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Damn :eek::eek::eek::eek: hagrid, you're right, SIR! I was viewing on a tiny phone.....holy shit, CZ FAILS in engine work!! Don't bother to vacuum the top of the engine, blow it off with compressed air, or water blast.....nah, just let those buckets of sand and dirt fall right into the engine....what could it possibly hurt?? :retard::retard::retard::retard:

Put your glasses on and re-evaluate. Untold quantities of filth have fallen upon internally lubed components.

Including a weaf.
 
   #287  

WarpSpeed

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Worst part about working on older vehicles - corroded fasteners which fail. Whether the threads are destroyed, the fastener snaps or the heads are just rounded off to near perfect circles which no socket can grip.

Plan for the worst, hope for the best.
 
   #288  
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CZLoco

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Making a little progress with dimples


:fu: :fu: from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
   #289  
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CZLoco

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3/4" deep pilot hole drilled into both studs.
The holes look to be pretty straight?

Waiting on the Amazon left-hand bits & extractor stuffs to arrive.
Not feeling quite as helpless as I was a few hours ago. :up:
Gonna take a nap now.
 
   #291  
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Stop right now and clean out the lifter valley. Get the lawn debris out, the dirt, the anti-freeze (use paper towels), and anything else that doesn't belong there.
Then take your roommate's bath towel and fold it and lay it in there nicely so no more shit (including metal filings) gets into your engine.
 
   #292  

BilletMan

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As previously mentioned, concentricity of your drilled holes is KEY.....crossing fingers, that's some miserable shit right there! Good job, so far!
 
   #294  

tinhead

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Being able to see the circle outlining the top of the broken part is heartwarming. Now you are certain that they really are separate components and the round one is coming out! :missuscool:
 
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   #296  

tinhead

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All you neat freaks. :roll:
The oil filter will catch all that shit,
Any mice will suck up the antifreeze drops and then die.
Maybe CZ could change the oil and filter at 4,000 miles instead of 8,500.
 
   #297  

hagrid

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All you neat freaks. :roll:
The oil filter will catch all that shit,
Ugh... (rubs temples)

Pray tell... what critical component must the filth laden oil pass through before encountering the filter element?
 
   #299  

Terry_Schiavo

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Didja get some new drill bits fer the job? Makes a whole lot of difference. At least the lefty's will be sharp. I have a drill bit sharpener, it is worth having.
yeah I have one from many years ago. Been collecting these $150+ SDS masonary bits idiots just toss like garbage. 2 mins on the sharpener and they are like new.
 
   #300  
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CZLoco

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Didja get some new drill bits fer the job? Makes a whole lot of difference. At least the lefty's will be sharp. I have a drill bit sharpener, it is worth having.
Oh my agrawrd.... I did not know this was a thing.
This will be perfect for my 100-piece $10 drill bits!!!


6:40PM still waiting for Amazon to deliver my left-hand bits.
Already drinking though so I'm done for the night.
 
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