So yeah, I bought my Ford Bronco. Finally!

Rhino

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You are doing fine.. get it running reliable .. hook up with Rob and one of his nice 4x4 dualies and take it for some off road trials.. see what breaks or needing an upgrade do those first and enjoy the summer with roof off. Then put the project into phases. Engine, transmission, rear ends, suspension, electrical, interior, then outside experience. This way you can use it as you build it. :)

****Always bring a friend with a GOOD truck when doing 4x4 trials..that way you have a way to get unstuck...or towed back home. It's good insurance to always have a second truck when off road.. ask me how I learned that lesson.. grrrrrrrrr
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Nice advice, Rhino Rhino. And I think it follows pretty well with my ideas as well.

So, an evening thunder storm put a dampener on my compression test re-do tonight.
I decided to Google the "full throttle" method of compression test out of curiosity.

If the throttle is closed, the cylinder fills with less than a full charge of air -- that's what the throttle is there for. So there's a vacuum (i.e. lower absolute pressure) in the cylinder. Then the piston compresses the vacuum, so the peak pressure in the cylinder is less than it would be if the cylinder had been allowed to draw in its full volume.

Thermodynamics: P1*V1/T1 = P2*V2/T2 (???) With a closed throttle, P1 is slightly less, so P2 will be less as well ???
What this tells me is a healthy engine may have zero difference in test results if throttle is open or closed.
BUT... a problem engine may not indicate any issues UNLESS the throttle is wide-open, further stressing the cylinder.
So I'm not skipping the re-do, but it is postponed till Saturday.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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I just replaced the Idle Air Controller (IAC), Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and Coolant Temp Sensor. It could just be having the battery disconnected for a while, but it seems like the Bronco is idling higher than "normal". Which is actually good. When I first started it up, it jumped up to like 2000 RPM's or so, which I don't recall ever seeing before. And is something I'd expect to see for the first few seconds of a cold startup.
It's still idling rt now, doing the re-learn.
I'll then let it cool down a bit.
Then take it for a test drive.

Oh hey, the website was down.
I'm done with the ride now.
Issue is still there.
Come to a stop in drive.
Idles fine for a moment.
Then suddenly drops from 1K to 500RPM and bounces up/down a little bit.

Will do the compression test this weekend.
And also replace the 02 Sensor, EGR Valve, Fuel Pressure Regulator, PCV Valve, Distributor Cap/Rotor and plug wires. All parts already sitting on the table next to me!

Hopefully that does it. If not, then I start troubleshooting vacuum leaks I think.
 
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def start looking for vaccum leaks now...does it have a maf sensor?

easy to find, go get a can of starting fluid and start spraying around the intake and such...idle will adjust itself very noticeably when you spray on a leaky hose or hole!
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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No MAF, nope. Speed Density until next year when I convert it.
Yep, I know of and have used that Starter Fluid trick.
Only used it once or twice. And it's one of those tricks that works!!

It still makes me worry about starting a fire somehow.
I'm OK with throwing spaghetti at the wall in the form of replacing sensors & switches.
For one, it's fun to do that kinda work.
And another, with 191k miles it can't hurt unless I get a DOA part.

Just ordered an OBD1 code puller. It'll be here tomorrow.
Can't believe AutoZone didn't have one.
Dude was like, uhhh, we can only pull OBD II.
If you need OBD1 codes then you need to go to the dealer. :fu:
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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$110 shipped (two each of the 5 quart oil) and gets here tomorrow.
Untitled.jpg
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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I didn't really NEED the 02 sensor socket.
But dammit, every 02 sensor I've replaced before made me wish I had it.
Crescent wrench is not the right way to do things.
I prolly shoulda just expanded my open-end wrench set size instead.
Oh well.
This is my lifetime vehicle purchase, I hope. So I want to do things right by it.

And you can't argue with a 4.5 star rated $17 vacuum tester.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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So a flash bang and then it's over?
Well heck, that's something to try for! :D
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Yes, I sprayed PB Blaster on the old 02 Sensor.
I'm sure it'll come right off with the Crescent wrench.
Geez, I'm feeling guilty about spending $10 on a socket I don't really, truly need.
 

Rhino

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Are you doing this whole project outside? Or is it in the garage with AMPLE room..

I have to seyou a picture of my TINY garage that I build everything in..
 

Rhino

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If there is no codes why are you replacing all the sensors. Throw a scope on it and see how it is running. Is there still a cat on it?
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Yep, doing the work on my driveway.
There is literally no room in my garage right now.
There will be later this year, but not now.

Still has the cat. There is just one 02 sensor and it goes before the cat
AFAIK, the entire exhaust is stock from the tailpipe to the exhaust valves.
I can't afford a full exhaust right now but I'm going to research cat-removal options after everything is running right. There is no more emissions testing to worry about since it's older than 25 years. :up:

I need to get motivated and start working on it this evening again.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Just replaced the nasty old 02 Sensor.
I think it may have been original.
Took my 5lb hammer to knock it loose.
And this was after soaking it in PB Blaster for two days!
The 02 Sensor socket was amazing. Well worth the $10.
IMG_20190510_185723.jpg
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Just replaced the nasty old distributor cap with a new Accell cap & rotor.
And you can see the yellow brick at the top right.
That's the Accell coil. I replaced the original a couple days ago.
Then I pulled all the old plug wires.
Didn't put the new Ford Racing 8.8 wires on yet.
I'll wait till after I re-do the compression test Saturday.

IMG_20190510_185859.jpg

Not sure if these old plug wires are OEM or not?
They didn't look toooo bad.
Very custom fit whatever they are.
MVIMG_20190510_185849.jpg
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Rhino Rhino I did not have to replace all these sensors/switches.
But when I buy a used vehicle, it's what I do.
Replace fucking everything that encompass a MAJOR tuneup or items that typically get carbon fucked or just go bad.

They don't cost very much money.
May as well take care of it while I'm in monkey-mode.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Oh yeah, I'm keeping ALL of the old stuff, btw.
Just in case. Cuz you never know.
It'll be nice if something weird crops up, that I can plug in the OEM crap to troubleshoot with.

None of the old stuff is being tossed.
Not even the plug wires.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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And now I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator.
That was freakin easy. 'ish.

IMG_20190510_194222.jpg
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Mustang 5.0 injectors are 4 hole spray @ 19 lbs ( look on craigs list . new about $80) ...used them on my 535 BMW make a huge difference over the single spray stock ones
I've read multiple threads talking about how much better the multiple spray injectors are!
I'll leave mine alone though.
Because if plans work out then next year will bring a 500 torque engine that requires high flow injectors.
I put a can of Seafoam into the fuel.
Same for the oil.
I'll do a half can for the vacuum pretty soon.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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And suddenly it's raining again so I'm done for 2night.
IMG_20190510_200130.jpg
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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FYI, half of my car parts orders have arrived a day or two late from Amazon.
And I've ordered a LOT of orders over the last couple weeks.
Never seen so many orders get "delayed" before from Amazons.
 

hagrid

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Your 500tq engine is gonna rip up your 350tq driveline... especially the driveline powering the front axle.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Yep, already researched that a bit.
New heavy doody splines & other stuff will be needed.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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It could be a pipe dream too though.
I may end up not caring about a high power engine once I get this thing rolling nice.
 

Hapo

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...think aboot it terms of a strong engine...

...go Full BilletMan on this...make a plan and define your goals and build to specific parameters n shit... .!.:D.!.
 

Terry_Schiavo

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I've read multiple threads talking about how much better the multiple spray injectors are!
I'll leave mine alone though.
Because if plans work out then next year will bring a 500 torque engine that requires high flow injectors.
I put a can of Seafoam into the fuel.
Same for the oil.
I'll do a half can for the vacuum pretty soon.
are you retarded or just fucking with us? Why not drink the seafoam yourself if its this fantastic elixr??? Maybe soak some in a tampon and shove it up your butt!!!! :fu: :D
 

Terry_Schiavo

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...think aboot it terms of a strong engine...]
...go Full BilletMan on this...make a plan and define your goals and build to specific parameters n shit... .!.:D.!.
BilletMan BilletMan will only do so much diligence on a given project. Now Master-Cylinder Master-Cylinder he has a silly scope and knows how to use it!! CZLoco CZLoco needs to get with NitroShark NitroShark for real Ford power!!
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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The Bronco is being an asshole today.
Replaced the 02 Sensor, EGR valve, plug wires & distributor cap;/rotor.
Absolutely positive I got the firing order & cap order correct.

But it sounds & feels like it's running on seven cylinders.
Started it up and began removing plugs from the cap one at a time to see what happens.
I got four plug wires into it (one at a time) without any significant idle difference.
Got tired of being shocked. That's a wicked shock if you aren't careful.
Reseated all plug wires at the distributor cap.
Gave up due to lack of light and engine too hot to dick around with plug wire fit on the plugs.

Pulled codes for the heck of it, since the code puller arrived yesterday.
Made sure to clear memory after writing them down.
Current codes are:

172 - HEGO H02s Sensor Fault/Lean
334 - EGR Closed Valve Voltage High

BITCH.
I just replaced BOTH of those. :screama::screama:
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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I was gonna do the compression test but had to put the plug wires back on first to get the engine warm.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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First thing tomorrow.
Test continuity of each plug wire.
Fix that fuxing new "running on seven cylinders" issue.
Test for vacuum leaks.

I was supposed to have it running perfect today.
And btw, the idle issue MIGHT be resolved now.
So far, so good.
And then tomorrow (Sunday) I was going to treat myself by removing the hard top and installing the soft top.
Mebbe not now.

I've noticed that lots of big trucks are now goosing their engines when they drive past my house now.
Kinda like Sportbikes did when I had my 'busa out in the driveway.
 

Master-Cylinder

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Sheez... you don't have a pair of spark plug wire pliers? Guy I used to work for wasn't bothered at all being shocked by plug wires. He'd pull them off, get lit up by the wire and just ignore it. :confused2:
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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IDK, mebbe it's the new higher voltage coil?
Shocked the frack out of me three times out of four wires.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Yeah, so when it felt like it was running on seven cylinders, I checked the plug wires. All good.
An hour of troubleshooting later and I checked the plug wires AGAIN.
Still good.

This morning I had daylight so I checked 'em a third time.
Funny how the #'s 5 and 6 look a lot alike in the dark with a flashlight.
Swapped 'em and now she runs smooth again.

About to do a re-learn but I suspect I'll still be needing to chase down this code -----

334 - EGR Closed Valve Voltage High

Still waiting on Amazon to deliver my vacuum tester.
But spraying WD40 on all the vacuum lines & connections didn't result in any idle changes.
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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$38 Mighty Vac vacuum tester FTW.
Yeah, that green vacuum line going to the EGR valve was clean busted in half.
No to research replacement lines.
1557693814325.png
 
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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Harbor freight has a few good things!

So the first and now the second vacuum line I've tested have been bad.
I guess I'm just gonna have to replace the entire freaking mess of vacuum lines now.
Bought 24' of 5/32 hose. It will be my current, most important priority.
Ugh. I've never screwed with vacuum lines before.
 
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I've had that same plastic mityvac for at least 20 years going strong. Used it 3 times last week. Never a rebuild of course I've never allowed anything but air to run through the actual pump.
 

Stetson

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I've had that same plastic mityvac for at least 20 years going strong. Used it 3 times last week. Never a rebuild of course I've never allowed anything but air to run through the actual pump.
I just used mine to help diagnose why my oil boiler stopped running a few weeks ago. Handy to have when you need them. :up:
 
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