So yeah, I bought my Ford Bronco. Finally!

   #101  

Rhino

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Now that a Jeep is SUV of the year.. do Jeeps feel shamed. I always looked as Jeeps as a singular entity and never considered them in the same class as an SUV.. they where simply JEEPS.
 
   #102  
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CZLoco

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Some will say the 1996 Bronco was the last true SUV ever made.

What's funny is the original 1966 Bronco was marketed by Ford as a sports car.
 
   #103  

Master-Cylinder

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I see a 60 ish guy driving this thing allah tyme. It has a three on the tree. Saw the dipshit a few gears ago "practicing" going thru the gears while he was sitting at a stop light. I was just sitting there staring at the idiot! :lol:

1557113352880.png
 
   #104  

Master-Cylinder

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By the way, that "six position" tail gate on the new GMC is gayer then a Schiavo/Z naked wrestling match.
 
   #105  

Rhino

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Some will say the 1996 Bronco was the last true SUV ever made.

What's funny is the original 1966 Bronco was marketed by Ford as a sports car.
There where many good SUVs after 96. The Broncos where very under powered compared to the GM offerings. But no matter which company you went with they all needed SOMETHING to make them better.
 
   #106  
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CZLoco

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   #107  
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CZLoco

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These are on the way from Amazon already.
Should have just got some from Harbor Freight since that's where I'll have to go to for the jack.

 
   #109  
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CZLoco

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Three of the five dogs out in the garage with me last night.

Laguna hiding at the back of garage, that little scaredy cat.
Roomie's dog pee-pee boy in the middle, thinking about where to poop next.
Ghost chillin on the driveway.

Those are so much less expensive but if I'm going to spend, I want something I can use at various spots under the chassis. :up:
 
   #110  

Rhino

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Pissing and shitting in the house SPECIALLY the garage where I lay on my floor = crate for pee pee boy

You will need a high lift Jack for off road use.. comescin handy for lifting or can be rigged as a come along
 
   #111  
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CZLoco

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So when I bought the Bronco, I had to drive it two hours home in a torrential tropical storm (as far as Texas goes).
And both left/right side mirrors bounced up & down the ENTIRE way home. It was kind of a tension-filled drive.

I get home and order a couple new side mirrors.
Go to replace them and found out the truck originally had those big huge massive mirrors like an F350 might have.
And the original owner never bothered to drill the door out for the support beam.
So I had to do that to install the new mirrors to keep them stable.

Original nasty mirrors:
IMG_20190426_163447.jpg

Oh crap, there is no large hole for the new mirror's support beam to go through.
And WTF, there are two other holes. Turns out, that was for the old school mirrors.
IMG_20190426_123351.jpg

New mirrors were like $40-$50 each I think.
Pretty decent 3rd party quality.
IMG_20190426_163654.jpg

So I took the rubber gasked. Lined it up with the existing holes.
Used my sharpie to trace out the large hole in the middle for support beam.
IMG_20190426_164144.jpg

Nice, it'll work out fine.
IMG_20190426_164141.jpg

Broke out my Dremel and a cutting wheel.
It took about 30 minutes of cutting.
Did you know that door skin is dual-layered in some places?
The dremel worked very well. I could have used a hole saw but have had bad luck with those skipping around in the past while working on wood.
IMG_20190426_164419.jpg

The new mirror's support beam going into the door.
Oh, my Bronco didn't have power mirrors.
So I bought power mirrors so the cabling would be there for whenever I get around to upgrading the door panels with power mirror switch. IMG_20190426_173946.jpg

And here is the support beam ready to be tightened down!
I've read that you do NOT want to make it real tight.
Just snug it down or the door skin will bend in and/or the support beam could fail.
IMG_20190426_174235.jpg
 
   #112  

BigGar

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Wow that's a bad paint job. I can't handle shit like that. As long as it's a southern car that's rust free is far more important that a paint job though. I prefer to buy cars with original paint, even if there is none left. At least you know what you're starting with. Plenty of sage advice here Eddie. Get that kill switch installed asap, unless you've got full coverage insurance on it. Also, I'd get the front end parts thoroughly checked out before changing out the steering box. Could just be a bunch of worn tie rod ends and other bits
 
   #113  

LURCH

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Eddie, for a replacement jack, the hi lift is your ticket. Your current need is for a floor jack like you show. You probably won’t haul around a floor jack when you go wheeling though.
 
   #116  
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CZLoco

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Wow. When I changed my plugs & did a compression test on my Bronco yesterday, I was hating life.
I literally had to use my pliers to pull three or four of the plug wires!

This came in the mail today.
And OMG it makes it sooooo easy to pull the plug wires.


I used it on one wire that was a PITA yesterday and it just popped right off.
And that was one that I forgot to use dialectic grease on.
 
   #117  
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CZLoco

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I also got this. Had a 5/8 already.
But liked that this one was magnetic and had the swivel.

And installed this.
It literally took like 30 seconds to install.
The original one was crusty looking.
This one should let me widen spark plug gap if I ever decide to play around with that.

New Ford Racing 8.8 plug wires are due to arrive tomorrow I think.
As well as the Accel distributor cap & rotor.
 
   #118  
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Eddie... just get a set of tits like the chick earlier in this thread. Pretty sure your project will be complete in no time... but
youll have to deal with creeper dudes :fu:
 
   #119  
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CZLoco

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Oh hey, I got one of those too!
Arrives in a day or two. :)


I'm hoping it'll double as my new shop seat also.
I hate the one I'm on now. This one.

 
   #120  
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CZLoco

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Btw, I got this and I've been using it on every single freaking bolt/screw that I pull from my Bronco.
It actually works!
Code:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FV70GMI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Dunno why the link doesn't work normal.
It's a bolt cleaner.
 
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   #121  

hagrid

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Did you pin the throttle open whilst you performed your compression test?
 
   #122  
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CZLoco

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Did you pin the throttle open whilst you performed your compression test?
??
No, I just pulled the coil plug.
Then turned the key for ~six seconds.
I'm Fuel Injected.
 
   #123  

Rhino

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Told ya you need a once a week Snap on truck visit.. spent my entire teen age years working to pay for a garage of tools... or you can go the made in China Amazon route for cheaper tools. Either will work.
 
   #126  
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CZLoco

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Um... it doesn't work that way.
Engine should have been fully warmed up too.
I'll do it again after my new plug wires get here. :up:
Feeling fairly comfortable with my #'s as-is though.
Hope it stays that way or gets better.

It's been a while.
I'm sure I've forgotten some rules.
 
   #127  
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CZLoco

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An excerpt from a conversation on another board that I just posted.
Who can tell me what I'm talking about.

I'm rarely this smart though.
Much more stubborn, am I.
I will wiggle that fugger off.
It's what Men do.
 
   #129  
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CZLoco

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That was on the "other other" board.
 
   #130  
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CZLoco

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Does anyone know?
I don't suspect injector issues.
But someday I'll have a high HP engine.
And for that, I'll want ~36-42lb injectors.

So from a maintenance perspective, rather than spend money to have my OEM injectors cleaned, would it make more sense to just buy high-flow injectors if I found a great price?
Or would a non-MAF (Speed Density) Fuel Injected engine require tuning/calibration to use the higher flow injectors?
I guess I'm asking. Are high flow injectors a drop-in part or not? Assuming no other engine mods are done at the same time.
 
   #132  
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i dont see you gaining any sort of meaningful gains by putting in bigger injectors on an otherwise stock motor.

what do you define as "high hp"...have to imagine the stock injectors would be fine up to power levels that would likely break other less beefy parts of your drivetrain.
 
   #134  
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CZLoco

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i dont see you gaining any sort of meaningful gains by putting in bigger injectors on an otherwise stock motor.

what do you define as "high hp"...have to imagine the stock injectors would be fine up to power levels that would likely break other less beefy parts of your drivetrain.
No, no... I'm not thinking that high flow fuel injectors would benefit me at all "right now".
I was just wondering... let's say one of my OEM injectors was clogged.
So rather than spend $80-$150 to have all my injectors cleaned, would it be better to just spend a little extra and get brand new high flow injectors.
Knowing that at SOME POINT in the future, I'll be running a 500HP/500TQ engine, or somewhere around that point is the goal.
At that point, I would certainly need high flow injectors.
That's all likely a year away if plans work out well.
Or years away if they don't.

Anyway, this is definitely a "no-go" since LEO5BUSA says I'd need to re-calibrate the computer for them. Or at least, I'm paraphrasing what he said.
That was the point of my post.
Does my computer require recalibration if high flow injecotrs are added to a stock engine/computer?
And the answer is "yes".
 
   #135  
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CZLoco

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Does anyone know about OBD1?
Is it possible that codes may be present even if the "check engine light" is not flashing but is otherwise working properly?
I'm wanting to chase down my hunting-idle issue.
Already put a bunch of sensors & stuff on my Amazon list.

I used to have a code reader for an '85 Mustang 5.0 but I cannot find it ANYWHERE right now.
I may have given it away.
 
   #137  
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CZLoco

CZLoco

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[SPOILERALERT]
he dead though
someone needs to do an OBD test on him
[/SPOILERALERT]
 
   #140  
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Does anyone know about OBD1?
Is it possible that codes may be present even if the "check engine light" is not flashing but is otherwise working properly?
I'm wanting to chase down my hunting-idle issue.
Already put a bunch of sensors & stuff on my Amazon list.

I used to have a code reader for an '85 Mustang 5.0 but I cannot find it ANYWHERE right now.
I may have given it away.
Gather Ford OBD1 Trouble Codes in Under 5 Minutes
 
   #142  
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Does anyone know about OBD1?
Is it possible that codes may be present even if the "check engine light" is not flashing but is otherwise working properly?
I'm wanting to chase down my hunting-idle issue.
Already put a bunch of sensors & stuff on my Amazon list.

I used to have a code reader for an '85 Mustang 5.0 but I cannot find it ANYWHERE right now.
I may have given it away.
I know that with OBDII you can certainly have "pending" codes present that won't throw the CEL.
 
   #143  
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And FYI... Higher flow injectors = a lot more fuel. More fuel requires more air. A significant amount of of air. Bottom line is that you don't need bigger injectors unless you're substantially increasing your air flow, e.g. supercharging or increasing displacement. Increasing air flow with a modified air intake, i.e. an open air cleaner/larger cold air intake/using a hi-flow air cleaning element (i.e. K&N), does not amount to enough of an increase in air flow to justify larger injectors (but would benefit from re-mapping).
 
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   #144  
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That was the point of my post.
Does my computer require recalibration if high flow injecotrs are added to a stock engine/computer?
And the answer is "yes".
On my stock truck...putting multi hole pintel injectors on it netted better throttle response and smoother idle... because atomization was finer than the stock single hole. Bonus they just happened to be the exact size mooostang guys pull off when doing upgrades. Cost was free. I did try some larger injectors and dyno'd...the net result was air/fuel ratio in the 10:1 area. With proper sized units...went right back to 13:7 or higher. This was just changing the injector...if you wsnt to monkey with fuel pressure and slowing injector operstion time...have fun.
 
   #147  

Rhino

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Do the compression test the proper way before throwing parts at it.

You mean like throwing on a good top end and not building the crank or Rods.... seen that done so many times with budget builds only to have to sell after they blow the bottom end. :)
 
   #149  

Hapo

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Do the compression test the proper way before throwing parts at it.
...or better yet just rebuild/replace it before you starts with the parts...

...if I had the talent or the $$$ I would leave that motor as is and start building the good motor...

...then I would have the old mill to build up...
 
   #150  
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CZLoco

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I've got a bunch of sensors & stuff arriving today. Partly to fix the hunting-idle fix (new IAC) and partly because it just needs a tune-up.
And partly just to get that stuff out of the way.

But I agree. Let me get that compression test done properly before I do anything else.
Thank you. :up:
 
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