I thought you understood that I was not going to steal underwear, from various members, for you to wear on your head in your strange role playing games.Just be thankful that your underwear drawer is now safe....
Just rebuilt about 12 years back and has maybe only 6000 miles on it.If timing is okay .... decarbonize that bitch ...
Carbon build-up could be igniting the mixture.
This is how we did it back in the 80's ...
Remove air cleaner. Start the car. Have a squirt bottle ( like a condiment bottle) full of water ready. Grab the throttle linkage ... rev it up and squirt water down the carb throat. Tip from your uncle Al ... keep face away from carb ...
You can also substitute trans fluid for the water. It acts like a solvent and helps break-up the carbon.
Did they perform a compression or leak-down test? Could be just worn out rings and valve seals.
Well dang.......I thought you understood that I was not going to steal underwear, from various members, for you to wear on your head in your strange role playing games.
I told you no and I meant that I wasn't going to do it...
...no matter how many blowjobs you promised to perform on me!
The Italian Tune up.No downside to decarbonizing it. I used to use Marvel Mystery Oil (probably just transmission fluid). Get the car nice and hot, then remover air cleaner while it's running and pour it down the carburetor at a small trickle at first until the tailpipe is smoking heavily. At that point, increase the pour rate until the car stalls. Turn off the key and let it set overnight. Fire that bitch up in the morning and go drive the piss out of it. It will lay a smokescreen down for the first few minutes like nothing you've ever seen. I got pulled over in my '73 Cougar after doing it once. Policeman was laughing, and coughing. I explained my process and he let me go.
This has been the case in all of my personal experiences. True that my experience is limited. I'm just not old enough to have had a lot of vehicles with points/rotor and mechanical fuel pump.Timing
This was one of my suspicions. No obvious leakage (fuel or air) and no issues with idle. Even very low idle. Smooth and steady.Make sure the carb isn't leaking or dribbling from some gasket. When they are idling poorly, as Huge Erection says, hacks always crank the idle speed up. it has to have a bit of air and fuel to run on.
This is still a concern, but doesn't seem to be adversely affecting the engine for this issue. The previous owner drove to the beach at 10mph every month for 10+ years. No WOT, no long trips and a lot of sitting with cheap fuel in the tank.Carbon build-up could be igniting the mixture.
Installing that electronic ignition module will make it better for Paul because as the points wear down it will be so subtle that he'll hardly notice it.Greyhound.
I wish I had the time to come retrieve you. Better you heal up and we'll make plans later.
Italian Tuneup is what I was taught to do on all the old customer's cars that came in for service, back in the day.My father used to get in my grandmothers car and "blow the cobs out of it". Sometymes, there is a fine line between cobs and rods.
It would be cool if the new ignition ran off a crank trigger instead of a sprockets, chain, 90 De g. gears, shaft, bushings, springs, vacuum dashpot, hoses, and weights that probably need bushings.Installing that electronic ignition module will make it better for Paul because as the points wear down it will be so subtle that he'll hardly notice it.
The electronic stuff will remove that wear as an issue and driveability will be much improved across the board.
I am curious as to how the rpm limiter is setup on that unit so, please do let me know how that works out!
Now I'm going outside to apply a trim piece on the Neon that I've been working on for three days, one handed, and
I finally have all the old glue off this morning and reshaped the plastic molding to make it straight again, last Sunday...
...then maybe I can play with my new holster and get the grip it has on my 938 a little freer, using the instruction of our beloved WarpSpeed, of course.
I just can't sit still...
...it can't be all the crack I smoke.
I will be converting my old Toyota 4x4 to crank triggered ignition and upgrade the injection system as well, hopefully soon.It would be cool if the new ignition ran off a crank trigger instead of a sprockets, chain, 90 De g. gears, shaft, bushings, springs, vacuum dashpot, hoses, and weights that probably need bushings.
Have Tony find his vacuum gauge and set the ignition timing with it.Very relieved to hear that the car seems to be running OK/better now. Hopefully it was just the old gas and that going forward, fresh gas at the pump without additives will be sufficient to enable the car to run well.
When Dameon first got the car, he reported the car was diseling and I did look this up online and ran across a bunch of posts saying that this typically was due to carbon build up and the solution was to spray water into the intake while revving the motor to rid itself of carbon deposits. That sounded terrifying to me - I ran the idea by Dameon who agreed it sounded a little too risky and suggested letting the mechanic work on the car first.
Like Wretch pointed out, the engine supposedly has very little mileage on it since the rebuild which also had been done after leaded gas had gone away so it was kind of odd that it'd have carbon deposits bad enough to cause dieseling in the first place. Regardless it seems to be running better now and hopefully with some more driving by Dameon, and then under me, it will continue to clear out and improve. I'll probably throw in a few bottles of Techron into the tank when I arrive and will be filling up at Costco (whose gas consistently tests high in terms of quality and detergents) whenever I can find one on the route. It helps that it's cheaper and I've got 5% or so cash back on Costco gas. At $6 a gal that comes out to 30 cents per gallon.
Now that it apparently doesn't diesel anymore... Looking at the power issue...
I really wish I knew more about the engine rebuild. My biggest question is - was it rebuilt to run properly on non-leaded gas? If so, I should be able to return to stock timing to get back a bunch of horsepower. Anybody know if there's a relatively easy way to find out short of having somebody hearing continually test driving the car at stock timing using lower and lower grade gas until it starts pinging? Then we'd know that one grade up on the octane rating will be sufficient, or if it pings at 91, that the timing does indeed need to be retarded after all.
Is my thought process correct?
Here's the latest map with Las Vegas removed.
View attachment 101418
July 1st, I leave point C and head to Jeff's in Dallas.
Point D to point E makes me the most nervous. 11+ hours drive. Looks hot too. It's also almost the same leg that my Dajiban build Van choked on last summer. Thankfully it choked really close to Dano's relatively speaking and we were able to be rescued via trailer.
What news?...than any "other" car you've owned? Did you break the news to Wicked yet?