Oil Change related - OK or neglect?

Wretch

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I could see a small piece of road debris knocking the Fujimoto oil drain thing right off the oil pan, or knocking it open.
Yeah, I'd be worried enough to drill and safety wire it shut, build a shield around it out of 1/4 inch steel...

...and then I'd still be concerned.
 

Terry_Schiavo

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I could see a small piece of road debris knocking the Fujimoto oil drain thing right off the oil pan, or knocking it open.
I would say the name of the device I prefer but Jooos dont like German engineering!
The best part is I like to drain out a small sample on peoples fresh driveway(s). Cut the middle man out of
recycling!! :D
 

Ed

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Talking 35' foot gas powered motorhomes towing a car to diesels towing up to 15k..
:shrugs: The 1277 engine in my B12 runs oil temps in excess of 270°F in the oil pan routinely, and substantially hotter than that atop the cylinder head... if you feel that waving unrelated applications around means something, go right ahead but your experience is meaningless to me.

.
 

GSXRTURBO1

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:shrugs: The 1277 engine in my B12 runs oil temps in excess of 270°F in the oil pan routinely, and substantially hotter than that atop the cylinder head... if you feel that waving unrelated applications around means something, go right ahead but your experience is meaningless to me.

.
Well, they don't call 'em oil boilers for nothing.
 

Vegas12

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Show me the dino oil that can stand up to sustained oil-boiler temps of 250°F+ in the pan :lol: ...I won't hold my breath.

I'd be running the green Brad Penn partial-synth for its' additive package, but it just doesn't last in our Summer heat.

.



:shrugs: The 1277 engine in my B12 runs oil temps in excess of 270°F in the oil pan routinely, and substantially hotter than that atop the cylinder head... if you feel that waving unrelated applications around means something, go right ahead but your experience is meaningless to me.

.

First it was 250....which is why I gave you my examples. Now you bumped it to 270.

You win.
 
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Anonymous Elvis 13

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On the hayabusa, I change the oil with the rear tire.

Sent from my REVVL 2 using Tapatalk
 

Master-Cylinder

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Harleys don't measure oil temperature, they have a sensor for head temperature. And on the newer ones, when the rear cylinder head reaches 275 they go into single cylinder mode at idle.
You can read the oil temp and watch it climb using the Daytona Twin Tec. Probably using the Dynojunk Power Vision or any of the Harley SERT or Pro Tuner too.
 
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Master-Cylinder

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Ed

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First it was 250....which is why I gave you my examples. Now you bumped it to 270.

You win.
Winning doesn't mean anything in this context; two-fifty-plus was my original assertion, just as you have quoted above.

Throw in the realities of the oil being sheared through the gearbox, and the added liabilities of a wet clutch... there's no correlation to oil life in a car or truck.

.
 
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So Harleys constantly overheat their oil and it's never what kills them. Of course they have roller bearing lower ends and use 20w50, synthetic if you want but the recommended service interval is still every 5000 miles.

Now plain bearing engines it's all 5w30 and that stuff is like water at 200 degrees and the recommended service interval can be up to 10,000 miles or more if you wait until your car tells you to change it. And they are willing to warranty this situation for 100k miles.

Oil Hype 2020.
 

Vegas12

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Winning doesn't mean anything in this context; two-fifty-plus was my original assertion, just as you have quoted above.

Throw in the realities of the oil being sheared through the gearbox, and the added liabilities of a wet clutch... there's no correlation to oil life in a car or truck.

.


I can say I've seen that a good quality conventional is good for 275....which would encompass that 250+ OP....and I could say a truck running up a major grade with a load could reach that 250 safely on a quality conventional....but it doesn't matter.

I don't have any vehicles that run at 275 and higher ....like I said, you win.
 

busa10

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I got tired of the oil debates years ago so I did my own testing. I filled copper pipe caps with different oils, applied heat, measured how much heat they would take to burn and what carbon was left after burning. I used Penzoil 10w-40, Penzoil 30w, Mobil 1 full synthetic and Amsoil 10w-40. I don't have the numbers anymore, but the two Penzoils took about the same amount of heat then they flamed up on their own leaving a lot of soot, especially the 10w-40. I read later that the additive used in dino multigrade oils is why they burn so dirty, this matched my results. Mobil one was good, took more heat and would only continue to burn while flame was applied, but left very little soot. Amsoil took the most heat and left no noticeable residue. Been using synthetics ever since. Motul Ester based synthetic in my bikes. Amsoil in my trucks.
 

Terry_Schiavo

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I got tired of the oil debates years ago so I did my own testing. I filled copper pipe caps with different oils, applied heat, measured how much heat they would take to burn and what carbon was left after burning. I used Penzoil 10w-40, Penzoil 30w, Mobil 1 full synthetic and Amsoil 10w-40. I don't have the numbers anymore, but the two Penzoils took about the same amount of heat then they flamed up on their own leaving a lot of soot, especially the 10w-40. I read later that the additive used in dino multigrade oils is why they burn so dirty, this matched my results. Mobil one was good, took more heat and would only continue to burn while flame was applied, but left very little soot. Amsoil took the most heat and left no noticeable residue. Been using synthetics ever since. Motul Ester based synthetic in my bikes. Amsoil in my trucks.
You use 7100 for the bike?? Seems alot of street riding queers think using 300v is a good idear (its not)
Vegas12 tried sell me some Scamsoil in 1 litre quantities. He kept saying "It has Sony guts"... whatever that means. :D
 

BilletMan

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Say what?? I guess I appreciate the DIY of your oil testing, but you're way off, in my opinion. I've done a lot of work in the lube oil R&D, testing, certification areas. Your heating them up is so irrelevant to a running engine or any test regime. The tests are brutal! Modern lubricants are fucking BADASS! The chemistry and additives are seriously cool...I don't understand how your test can measure the oil's effectiveness in running engines...
I got tired of the oil debates years ago so I did my own testing. I filled copper pipe caps with different oils, applied heat, measured how much heat they would take to burn and what carbon was left after burning. I used Penzoil 10w-40, Penzoil 30w, Mobil 1 full synthetic and Amsoil 10w-40. I don't have the numbers anymore, but the two Penzoils took about the same amount of heat then they flamed up on their own leaving a lot of soot, especially the 10w-40. I read later that the additive used in dino multigrade oils is why they burn so dirty, this matched my results. Mobil one was good, took more heat and would only continue to burn while flame was applied, but left very little soot. Amsoil took the most heat and left no noticeable residue. Been using synthetics ever since. Motul Ester based synthetic in my bikes. Amsoil in my trucks.
 

Vegas12

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You use 7100 for the bike?? Seems alot of street riding queers think using 300v is a good idear (its not)
Vegas12 tried sell me some Scamsoil in 1 litre quantities. He kept saying "It has Sony guts"... whatever that means. :D

Scamsoil A.K.A. jesusoil.....shit will do EVERYTHING!!!

Lube your motor, help you with Mr. Lucky and your anal excursions(no thermal breakdown/friction) , fry some extra crispy chicken, and when your shit breaks down in the middle of the fla. swamps you can drain it and drink it for complete hydration!!

So, Schiavo.....how many liters will you be buying this week??
 
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I was at an Amway convention and the scamsoil people showed up like they are one of us or something. We tossed 'em, told them to go hit a pampered chef party or something.
 
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Lucas oil is the Jesus oil. I worked at this one shop they really used to love those guys, their reps are so full of shit. New Harleys using oil running their crap.......they blame case porosity.

They weren't making 10w40 full syn motorcycle oil....well you can use additive in the 10w30 and it MAKES it into 10w40.......but you should always use the stabilizer additive anyway..

Bullshit bullshit bullshit
 

Master-Cylinder

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I like the V-Twin oils, Harley, Amzoil, Mobil and some others that you can use in the engine, primary and trans.
 
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I like the V-Twin oils, Harley, Amzoil, Mobil and some others that you can use in the engine, primary and trans.
Well it's like I tell people who own Harleys.....you can run whatever the fuck you feel like in your trans and primary. You could run ATF in your trans if you want like manual trans cars do.

However I recommend 90 weight syn gear oil in the sloppy trans, and in the primary never use synthetic anything, it's a chain and a wet clutch, anything goes...half full goes if you want.
 

Ed

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I like the V-Twin oils, Harley, Amzoil, Mobil and some others that you can use in the engine, primary and trans.
The only "V-Twin" formula I've tried out was the Mobil 1 20W-50, and it didn't seem to take the heat as well as their 15W-50... no scientific results to back the supposition, but there was clearly more vapor smell from the crankcase breather and it got dark very quickly.

Did an oil change on the g/f's 2018 Accord last weekend; turbocharged 2.0 liter and it calls for 0W-20... no doubt CAFE plays a role but shit- hard to believe it'll live very long, that stuff pours like water.

.
 

Master-Cylinder

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The only "V-Twin" formula I've tried out was the Mobil 1 20W-50, and it didn't seem to take the heat as well as their 15W-50... no scientific results to back the supposition, but there was clearly more vapor smell from the crankcase breather and it got dark very quickly.

Did an oil change on the g/f's 2018 Accord last weekend; turbocharged 2.0 liter and it calls for 0W-20... no doubt CAFE plays a role but shit- hard to believe it'll live very long, that stuff pours like water.

.
Used to use RedLIne Zero weight trans oil in my racebike trans. Silkolene in the pre-mix or Castrol A747.
 

busa10

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Say what?? I guess I appreciate the DIY of your oil testing, but you're way off, in my opinion. I've done a lot of work in the lube oil R&D, testing, certification areas. Your heating them up is so irrelevant to a running engine or any test regime. The tests are brutal! Modern lubricants are fucking BADASS! The chemistry and additives are seriously cool...I don't understand how your test can measure the oil's effectiveness in running engines...

Like I said this was years ago, probably 30. I was a kid and this is just what I came up with. The ability to take more heat wasn't a big deal to me, but dino oils leaving soot after burning did. All engines burn oil to some degree and running these fully synthetics they run significantly cleaner and will show less wear over time, especially in higher wear areas like the valvetrain.
I can't say that I've seen dino oil related failures... although maybe I have with spun bearings and broken rocker arms, but I have seen plenty of dirty engine cases and blocks.
That said, I'm sure the dino oils today are much better than they used to be.
 

Vegas12

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I found some straight 60w synthetic that was supposed to be for Harleys. I use it for gear oil in my Valiant.

I found some un opened Castrol M/C oil in the conex....has to be +- 10 years old.

Perusing the www, I discovered motor oil has a shelf life.

I understand once a bottle of anything is opened, but it kind of blew me away regarding a sealed bottle.
 

BilletMan

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Full synthetic IS better oil. I just changed the oil in my beloved Honda EU-6500is....the oil was 3 years old with 60 hours on it...I don't stress one bit about oil that's older than a year....

My Ford truck comes factory with full synthetic oil. That's what Ford recommends....Conventional oil, 3000 miles. Full synthetic, 10,000 miles per Ford's recommendation...Fuck that, this is a very easy decision...I drive it 10k miles every time....fuck changing oil all the time...a little more money and drive long time...
 

Vegas12

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Full synthetic IS better oil. I just changed the oil in my beloved Honda EU-6500is....the oil was 3 years old with 60 hours on it...I don't stress one bit about oil that's older than a year....

My Ford truck comes factory with full synthetic oil. That's what Ford recommends....Conventional oil, 3000 miles. Full synthetic, 10,000 miles per Ford's recommendation...Fuck that, this is a very easy decision...I drive it 10k miles every time....fuck changing oil all the time...a little more money and drive long time...

I believe you're 1/2 correct.....Ford uses a synthetic blend factory fill.

It gets good reviews and it's cheap as hell @ wally world......5 quarts for $18.
 

busa10

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A lot of people don't realize that the oil needs to be labelled "fully synthetic" to actually not be derived from dino's. Most of Mobil 1 and other manufacturers label "synthetic oil" and are really semi synthetic oils. I believe the Mobil 1 gold top is their fully synthetic oil.
 
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