Next project covert my generator to run on Natural gas-propane

Wretch

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funny thing about my ups..it wouldnt actually work using my old school 7500kw generator. guess it didnt produce a "clean" enough power wave/signal/whatever its called when plugged directly into it.
Sometimes you have to bump the idle up just a little to get them to accept the power.
A nice Fluke meter is most helpful in doing just that.
 

Master-Cylinder

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I've never had a problem with the UPS running off my little Honda EU2000is.

Speaking of UPS things, I'm down at Interstate Battery weekly picking up new batteries for the things at work. Got six of them this week. One of them takes a four pack of batteries.
Why Interstate? Because it is close, and we can have the battery in less than an hour.

I've replaced two UPS units at the house this month.
 

Your Car Is Slow

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the previous older gen was not an inverter style... it would power everything (fridges/etc)...but the UPS would generate a fault light when plugged into it that indicated it was not able to charge etc.
 

Wretch

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I used to work at a Hyster dealership. Cleaner and lower maintenance costs was a big selling point for LP trucks. I never really saw any oil issues with them, and I only serviced about 5000 of them or so.
What were the service intervals?
How many hours before changing the oil?
 

Wretch

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IIRC, 200 hours.
That's how long I let my gasoline mower go.
I do treat with PTFE though.
Stays pretty clean.
Fuel filter gets changed a couple of times a year even using treated non-ethanol fuel.

No samples taken?
I'm thinking the tractor was going nearly 400 hours before changes, if I recall correctly.
That may be why the issue started showing up.
It was always clean even though a little thick.
 

Your Car Is Slow

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def interested if this will work on the bigger portable generators. id love to have a 500g tank of propane in the yard vs keeping 100 gallons of gas around and fresh all the time.
 

Terry_Schiavo

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def interested if this will work on the bigger portable generators. id love to have a 500g tank of propane in the yard vs keeping 100 gallons of gas around and fresh all the time.
get BilletMan BilletMan to do the CFMs of the engine and figure out what kind of pressure regulator/hose size you'd need. Then prod him to tell you how to recover the exhaust energy for heat!! :D

 

pimpslayer

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tinhead

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I've never had a problem with the UPS running off my little Honda EU2000is.

Speaking of UPS things, I'm down at Interstate Battery weekly picking up new batteries for the things at work. Got six of them this week. One of them takes a four pack of batteries.
Why Interstate? Because it is close, and we can have the battery in less than an hour.

I've replaced two UPS units at the house this month.
Are Interstate and Yuasa still all under the same capitalist umbrella?
I recall a local garage was getting both from the same Interstate truck.
 

Terry_Schiavo

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How about recovering the exhaust heat, for energy?
220/221 he still wont give the deets. If you parallel some EUs... they use 1/2 as much fuel but generate 2x power. Need clarification? Check out Ocasios pic up there for the green new deal! :D
It works much like spring around here... my neighbor goes to work at 7am... and I roll his hose out to fill my pool at 7:15. I get home at 2:30pm... roll the hose back up. Weeks later he gets a $1900 water bill. I laugh while "free" floating in the pool.
 

Terry_Schiavo

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For aboot ten large, I could have two EU7000is wired together. Or, for twelve five, I could have a 20KW 1800RPM diesel generator rattling away out back.
If only I had Cisco/YSR/Ro$$ money.
As many hurricanes as Ive been through... 1 EU2000 is plenty for essential survival with an extended run tank. A fridge, tv, radio, phone charger, single burner coil and a propane grill for cooking. I bought a 2200 just to show off.
 

BilletMan

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TS gets it.....you can live plenty well with one or two (linked) 2000's.....right on, brother...
As many hurricanes as Ive been through... 1 EU2000 is plenty for essential survival with an extended run tank. A fridge, tv, radio, phone charger, single burner coil and a propane grill for cooking. I bought a 2200 just to show off.
 

BilletMan

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WTF is this?? So running on a gaseous fuel boils off the 'light ends' of the lube oil. Apparently twice as pronounced as gasoline combustion?? Never mind the soot formation from liquid gasoline that spoils the oil and turns it dark. This is counter-intuitive as fuck. I'm calling bullshit on this. If you're right, please educate me...I'd like to know...
Running the natural gas or propane means you need to change the oil twice as often beside the 20% power loss.

The volatile components of the oil cook off as it runs and the oil loses it's ability to flow as well and if left long enough, will turn into pudding.
 

Wretch

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WTF is this?? So running on a gaseous fuel boils off the 'light ends' of the lube oil. Apparently twice as pronounced as gasoline combustion?? Never mind the soot formation from liquid gasoline that spoils the oil and turns it dark. This is counter-intuitive as fuck. I'm calling bullshit on this. If you're right, please educate me...I'd like to know...
I only know what I've seen happen.
No argument that gaseous fuels burn cleaner and don't produce carbon that blackens the oil, turning it into extrusion paste to eat bearings in gasoline powered engines.
 
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Oil-Change Intervals

Natural gas tends to extend the useful life of the engine's lubricating oil because it produces less carbon when burned. In conventionally fueled vehicles, engine oil degrades as a result of soot and other impurities from the combustion process that are then absorbed by the oil. NGV owners should consult their vehicle's maintenance manual for the proper oil-change interval. For vehicles that have been converted from gasoline to natural gas, it's still best to follow the original maintenance schedule, particularly if the engine is under warranty. Fleet managers may find it economical to send oil samples to a laboratory for testing, to understand the maximum useful lifetime for each oil change.
 

BilletMan

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Sure, great idea....I freeze my ass of in the winter...I'd convert the heat to energy, then likely change my mind and convert the energy back to heat with a 1500w electric heater....
How about recovering the exhaust heat, for energy?
I'll find pics...I've TIG welded fittings onto my EU-2000 and EU-6500 mufflers....These things are super quiet...I've had them running inside my shop, doing a great job of piping the exhaust out the roof. Heat recovery picks up the rejected heat from the engine and generator processes, as well as a bit from the exhaust conduit leaving the building. It's extracting the most usable gain from the fuel spent...
 

Master-Cylinder

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Yeah, I had a fire place like that. It had probably 4~5 feet of extremely dangerous chimney red hot flue pipe exposed. Fucker sure felt good when it was freezing cold outside. Fancy rich people had the one where the flue went into a box full of tubes and had a blower behind it. Show off's even had electricity in their snobby houses.
 

GSXRTURBO1

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Friend of mind used to race Go Karts with "stock" Briggs and Scrapiron engines. They would dope the oil with crap that would burn off during the race and give them a wee bit of extra power.
years ago some SuperStock, Stock, and Comp Elim drag racers would buy the oil drained from top fuelers for this very reason. Very low tension oil rings and voila
 

Wretch

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i cant see how the temperature of the oil would be higher with LP/LNG....if it made a bigger/hotter bang...wouldnt it make more power vs less?

arent most oils engineered to resist temperatures far in excess of what even gasoline produces? the oil shouldnt be in the combustion chamber anyway...these arent two strokes.
Less BTU's with LP/LNG.

The oil does get into the combustion chamber and the carbon migrates into the crank case.
Even rings in new condition allow two way travel of both, old rings even more so.

Gasoline/oil produces lots of carbon when burnt and it turns the oil into an abrasive which isn't friendly to soft bearing surfaces.
LP/LNG burns much cleaner and so, the oil doesn't get nearly as dirty as with gasoline.

Oil burns because it has volatile components in it and even more so with the various multi-grade we have these days.
Over time the lighter components evaporate or are burnt off, no matter what fuel you use.

The oil basically stays oil, save for getting dirty with carbon as I mentioned earlier and loses it's lighter components over use/time.
Take the abrasives out of it and it still serves to lubricate and cool, as it is intended to.

It used to be that you could have oil recycled and we even sold/used it back when tolerances weren't so tight as they are in more modern engines.

Most everyone ran straight 30w oil and as tolerances got tighter, the oils got lighter, to flow more quickly to bearing surfaces.
Windage is much less of issue anymore with the lighter grades too.

Now we have 5w and 0w oils that act like 20w-50w, due to the additives.
That is what 10w-30/40 means on the bottles.
 

Terry_Schiavo

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see I always thought the #s on the oil bottle were a maff problem.
20/50 = .4
10/30 = .33
straight 30w = .30

you want the lowest numbah

Also I like to use additives that require shaking!!
 

Wretch

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I still dont see any logic behind a cooler/cleaner burning fuel causing oil to burn off faster than using gasoline.
May be something with the gasoline that gets into the oil in the crankcase keeping the oil "solution" together better?

The LP/LNG won't be as likely to get into the oil in volume the way gasoline does so, the lighter stuff in the oil cooks/evaporates off.
 
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