How to switch a double-pole 30A dryer recepticle between two different plugs?

Vegas12

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Welder probably not a big deal. Fancier ones might have a 120v circuit for a control panel or something. If it is a 3 wire plug, no neutral, and is less likely to have an issue. I'm pretty sure (TS can weigh in) that any modern 240v receptacle must be 4 wire. Old school manufactures were just riding the ground as a return path if they needed 120v on their device. Not safe.

On my RV, I never, ever, plugged it in hot. Normally I would turn the main breaker off in the RV before plugging it in. Once securely plugged, I would flip the main on the RV. Inverters can be overly sensitive to voltage spikes and drops.

Have owned 3 or 4 50 amp service RV'S.....never gave it a second thought.

Current RV is wired strange though, breakers are inclusive regarding shore power or generator....so they are usually shut off while switching power supply, then flipped on after the switch..
 
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What I mean by that : Since a dryer has a flat, low profile plug it's easy to get your fingers where they shouldn't be, if you got in a hurry. Human nature, do it until it's routine and you let your guard down. You aren't plugging in a lamp...use care.
 

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Current RV is wired strange though, breakers are inclusive regarding shore power or generator....so they are usually shut off while switching power supply, then flipped on after the switch..
Sounds like some of the 30/50amp models. When plugged into 30amp, the RV panel is fully powered. When plugged into 50amp, there is a switch for you to indicate you're in a 50amp plug and to split the panel load. Usually a second A/C and/or microwave are moved to the second 120v leg. There's a little more to it, but that's the gist.
 

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Simple solution for Eddie, a solar clothes dryer. I'll send him 40ft of clothesline.
I'm pretty sure his HOA won't allow his drawers to flap in the wind in the back yard.

If I had an HOA, I'd be a constant pain in their ass. I'd put a clothes line in the front yard and buy all kinds of weird "unmentionables" to hang on it. I think a deflated sex doll would work... they need to be washed and dried once in a while, right?
 

Vegas12

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Sounds like some of the 30/50amp models. When plugged into 30amp, the RV panel is fully powered. When plugged into 50amp, there is a switch for you to indicate you're in a 50amp plug and to split the panel load. Usually a second A/C and/or microwave are moved to the second 120v leg. There's a little more to it, but that's the gist.

Not positive, the guy I bought it from is a senior electrical engineer at Polaris....

He added the 5500 watt generator and separate panel.

Just have to remember remember to flip the appropriate mains depending on whether shore or generator power....

Not like my past factory installations at all where it was automatic.
 

Dameon

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Not positive, the guy I bought it from is a senior electrical engineer at Polaris....
Typical lazy engineer. :lol: He should follow my recommendation...

Not like my past factory installations at all where it was automatic.
Yes, I would recommend a 50amp ATS. Should be easy/obvious to wire in for a DIYer like yourself.
 

Terry_Schiavo

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I'm pretty sure his HOA won't allow his drawers to flap in the wind in the back yard.

If I had an HOA, I'd be a constant pain in their ass. I'd put a clothes line in the front yard and buy all kinds of weird "unmentionables" to hang on it. I think a deflated sex doll would work... they need to be washed and dried once in a while, right?
It would be awesome if you wore a skirt and pressure washed it in full view of the people driving by every weekend...hehe
 
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CZLoco

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I've been to his house... I don't think he has to worry about an HOA. He had one of the nicer yards on his street.
You make it sound nicer than it is!
I live in a very average neighborhood, but it's huge.
HOA is just $100/YEAR (not month like I wrote earlier).
And it's crazy, but I somehow scored "yard of the month" just a few months ago.
It's hard to imagine that out of ~200 houses, I somehow had one nice enough to compete (I really didn't).
They didn't plant that silly "yard of the month" sign in my yard though. :lol:
I think they just got tired of giving the prize to the same people and randomly picked me out of a hat.

I got a nice letter and four $25 cards to the local nicer steak house.
I gave them to the grandma/grandpa next door who are raising their two grandkids.
44464
 
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CZLoco

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I scheduled delivery of my compressor for this coming Monday!

Lots and lots of good stuff in this thread, thanks guys. :up:
Until I finish my other projects and have spare cash to spend, I'm just going to plug-n-play as needed.
Down the road I will add a sub-panel just for the garage and another for a future workshop (waaay down the road).
Have this one in my cart.
44465


Maybe someone reading this thread will like the idea of a lightswitch kinda deal to flip between outlets and then have some factory in China make it so they can sell it on Amazon.
Then I'll buy that just cuz I like the idea.
 
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Vegas12

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Typical lazy engineer. :lol: He should follow my recommendation...


Yes, I would recommend a 50amp ATS. Should be easy/obvious to wire in for a DIYer like yourself.

I'm lazy too....I just use a 15 amp to 50 amp pigtail to keep the batteries charged when not in use.


Screenshot_20201021-172543_Samsung Internet.jpg

I'll try and remember to exercise the generator once a month for an hour....also need to use the gas in the fuel station so it doesn't go bad.

I swear there's more maintenance than actual usage on these things!!
 
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Dameon

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You have room in your panel. They make breakers that double the capacity. Do it properly.
Probably wouldn't work in the pictured subpanel. The double breakers give you (2) 120v circuits on a single slot, but they are on the same phase. Since his subpanel has no 120v circuits, nothing to gain using double breakers.
 

Dameon

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I'm lazy too....I just use a 15 amp to 50 amp pigtail to keep the batteries charged when not in use.
Interesting adapter. I assume they merged the 2 hots on the twist lock to the one hot on the plug. Yeah, it wouldn't be good except to trickle charge and maybe some interior lights. Maybe control circuit on the refrigerator in propane mode.

I'll try and remember to exercise the generator once a month for an hour....also need to use the gas in the fuel station so it doesn't go bad.
The suggestion is to run until fully warmed up. That's usually about 5-10 minutes. Better to run with a load on it if possible. People tend to forget about cycling the fuel in the fueling station.

I swear there's more maintenance than actual usage on these things!!
Without a doubt. Like a boat. Or my Hayabusa.
 

Vegas12

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Interesting adapter. I assume they merged the 2 hots on the twist lock to the one hot on the plug. Yeah, it wouldn't be good except to trickle charge and maybe some interior lights. Maybe control circuit on the refrigerator in propane mode.
IDK, 15 AMPS is 15 Amps.....it'll run 1 appliance at a time, much like the 1800/2300 watt generator with adapter I use at night. But you're right, no TWO major appliances....

The little 2300/1800 watt (15A) Yamaha clone generator is fucking awesome.....when I don't need the 5500 watt on board gen set, like at night, the little guy will run all night on 1 gallon of fuel. Didn't need AC the last trip so the Sam's Club special was even used during the day....put about 40 hours on it during the week....which reminds me, I should do the initial oil change.


.
 

Dameon

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There are many flavors of those. You're incorrect. Anyways...
I'm always open to learn new things. Outside of a quad breaker that consumes 2 slots, and has some fancy internal wiring, I don't know how'd you'd get to both phases to end up with 240v.

I'll do some Google research...

Edit: With a little work, I did find this:

It is Homeline (not QO). Never seen one in use. But this wouldn't help Eddie.

Eventually found this abortion mess:

That would actually solve his issue, but I wouldn't put something like that in my panel. He may feel differently.
 
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Vegas12

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I'm always open to learn new things. Outside of a quad breaker that consumes 2 slots, and has some fancy internal wiring, I don't know how'd you'd get to both phases to end up with 240v.

I'll do some Google research...

Edit: With a little work, I did find this:

Never seen one in use. But this wouldn't help Eddie.

Eventually found this abortion mess:

That would actually solve his issue, but I wouldn't put something like that in my panel. He may feel differently.

I'll take a free one!!

(Post 12)
 

Dameon

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Need upgrade i know.
Cutler-Hammer? Federal-Pacific? Why do you have so many breakers off?

Not directed at you, but I'm not a shortcut kinda guy. Drives my wife crazy. She is a major shortcutter. I could have easily gotten away with running Romex in my shop. I went through the added expense and trouble of running EMT everywhere. I don't have time to do things twice. I'd rather take the time and money hit one time.
 
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Cutler-Hammer? Federal-Pacific? Why do you have so many breakers off?
LG......... you did mean my phone camera right?

Lmao...never paid attention. I have no use for a 200 amp box with only 18 slots. I plan to get rid of all the doubles and add about 4 new circuits. Look I got 40 amps in the kitchen (double red) and a single 20 for all the lights/outlets in my garage. Seems kinda "off balance" to me.

And what's wrong with Romex?
 

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LG......... you did mean my phone camera right?
Now I get it... fuzzy picture, camera upgrade. I was commenting on the panel needing an upgrade. Both could use an upgrade... :lol:

I got 40 amps in the kitchen (double red) and a single 20 for all the lights/outlets in my garage. Seems kinda "off balance" to me.
Yeah, a bit. The 240v/40a is likely an oven/range or something. Single appliance. I'm sure you have other breakers for the kitchen counter receptacles. Usually about 2-3 per 20a breaker. Kitchen appliances can be some power hogs... toaster overs, blenders, coffee makers, etc.

And what's wrong with Romex?
Susceptible to damage. Whether you drop a tool on it, roll a cabinet into it or the local mouse population go to town on it. Metal conduit also allows for rewiring within finished walls. In addition to avoiding shortcuts, I also tend to over provision.
 

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I have a giant Federal Pacific breaker box full of breakers, who want's it?
Warning, I will not be held responsible for your house burning down.
 
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CZLoco

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They sell them, but it would triple your cost and effort.

Amazon product
Are you fucking kidding me?!?
You just posted exactly what I was asking for and it's only $17 and as simple as wiring an electrical outlet!!!!!
I fucking love you, Mannnn.

I'll read about it more closely when I get off work.
 

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You just posted exactly what I was asking for and it's only $17 and as simple as wiring an electrical outlet!!!!! I fucking love you, Mannnn.
Yeah, that's just the switch. You sill need an enclosure, extra wire and ignore the schematics. Use a multimeter to validate the contacts before you wire it up!

Use a deep 4 square box (switch shows 50mm or about 2") and a blank cover. Cut the hole size you need for the switch. Doesn't have to be real clean as the switch looks to be surface mount (it'll cover the edges of the hole you cut). Neutral and ground can all tie together. You'll only switch the hots.

Maybe this: https://mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/050169/050169999875.jpg?size=xl
Even better might be this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sigma-Electric-2-Gang-Square-Metal-Weatherproof-Electrical-Box-Cover/3817967
 

Dameon

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Sheeet... Eddie would kill himself with that. :lol:

I think he would like the mad scientist aspect though. Maybe crank the amps up a little to get that nice arc jumping effect.
 

Stetson

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.If you had just wired a a plug on the compressor instead of starting this thread, you could've painted the Bronco AND done your laundry by now. :lol:
 
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CZLoco

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That switch doesn't seem to be quite what I thought, but I wasn't able to find any diagrams for it.
I'm sticking with the whip for now. Thanks though!

We haven't had to call the cops on our neighbor for almost 3 months now. We probably should throw him a bone... Yard of the Month, or sumptin'.
Oddly, it came just a couple of weeks after I finally removed my harbor freight folding trailer off my front yard (which I only did cuz the cops told me to).
 

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Now I get it... fuzzy picture, camera upgrade. I was commenting on the panel needing an upgrade. Both could use an upgrade... :lol:


Yeah, a bit. The 240v/40a is likely an oven/range or something. Single appliance. I'm sure you have other breakers for the kitchen counter receptacles. Usually about 2-3 per 20a breaker. Kitchen appliances can be some power hogs... toaster overs, blenders, coffee makers, etc.


Susceptible to damage. Whether you drop a tool on it, roll a cabinet into it or the local mouse population go to town on it. Metal conduit also allows for rewiring within finished walls. In addition to avoiding shortcuts, I also tend to over provision.

Well worth going the extra mile.

Even my long Island Victorian I rewired in all bx and I could have used romex in LI and plastic boxes.


Can't use romex here in the city . It's all pipe or bx.. all boxes must be metal.
 

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All you need is this.... $4.75


One of my first High voltage jobs was in Rockefeller Center NYC.. still uses exposed buss and knife switches up to 480 volt in some of the buildings. It's like working in a museum. They keep everything in NEW condition with a 12 men crew that maintains it all.
 

Dameon

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That switch doesn't seem to be quite what I thought, but I wasn't able to find any diagrams for it. I'm sticking with the whip for now. Thanks though!
What did you think it was? It switches between 2 input/outputs with a disconnect in the middle position. Don't need a diagram. They give you this...


Like I suggested, validate that with a multimeter before wiring everything up.
 
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