Driveline play?

Dragon 350

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I just call my mechanic. I'm a fabricator, I don't have time for fiddle fucking around with shit I know nothing about. And i don't want to know about it.

If you have more time than money, get on it.
 
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BigGar

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If shit was really going sideways, wouldn't it fuck the seals up. That truck has the driest diff I've ever seen. Not a drop, or a seep anywhere, ever (yes, there's fucking fluid in it).
 

GSXRTURBO1

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Nice! Now do I need an assortment of bearing pullers, giant snap ring pliers, and a level of expertise above "some college" on my resume to accomplish this? I like $120.00 :)
Good question, I can't say with complete certainty, but I believe basic tools, likely also a dial indicator (fairly cheap at HF). The pinion is the smaller gear the the driveshaft goes to (the yoke attaches to the pinion). The pinion is what drives the ring gear. There should be sh
 

Your Car Is Slow

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there is always some lash there, ie if it were up in the air and you turned the driveshaft back and forth by hand, youll get a few degrees of play going both directions.

however the clunking isnt normal (to me anyway).

said you were going to change the rear diff fluid anyway, id start there regardless. that one have a bottom drain plug? or have to pop the entire cover off? if the latter...id imagine if your issue exists in the diff, it will be very obvious with the cover off!
 
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BigGar

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Not me.

They spend one hour, you spend five. They do it once, you do it twice.

I'm not seeing the savings here. Unless i have nothing else to do.

That's just me, too each their own.
I know what I can go make every hour. It ain't $200, but it's not bad. I don't mind paying for shit to get done right, but I also don't mind a reasonable challenge. I've always been able to work at "book rate" hours or better even when I'm not sure what I'm doing. I'll check out a few YouTube vids and see if it's something I'm comfortable doing. If not, I'll break out the checkbook.
 
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I did pinion bearings in my 95 Ram. They were notorious for losing the bearings. Mine you could move the pinion in and out and it didn't leak.


Make sure to get all your preloads set BEFORE you put the pinion seal in, it will keep you from ruining the seal. Don't know how a GM is, but mine had a crush sleeve in it. I bought a kit to convert it to a solid spacer and shims. Made things lots easier.

One thing I always do is take a die grinder with a sanding roll on it and polish out the inside of the new bearings so they will slide on snd off the pinion gear without a puller.

I spent more for tools to do the job than I did parts.

I like buying tools anyway.
 

Ninjaman12R

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One thing I always do is take a die grinder with a sanding roll on it and polish out the inside of the new bearings so they will slide on snd off the pinion gear without a puller.
You can also do the old pinion in the freezer for a bit, and heat the bearing on a hot plate trick.
 

Wretch

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I'm not seeing the slack.

It really does need to be jacked up by the axle tubes and put in neutral to see just what the fuck is happening.

Doesn't look like much and with no ugly noises, I'd just drive the fuck out of it until you get some real damage or let all the smoke out and the wheels fall off.
 

Ninjaman12R

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I'm not seeing the slack.

It really does need to be jacked up by the axle tubes and put in neutral to see just what the fuck is happening.

Doesn't look like much and with no ugly noises, I'd just drive the fuck out of it until you get some real damage or let all the smoke out and the wheels fall off.
I'd say 0 to 100 to 0 runs until something more definitive shows up..........😀
 
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BigGar

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I'm not seeing the slack.

It really does need to be jacked up by the axle tubes and put in neutral to see just what the fuck is happening.

Doesn't look like much and with no ugly noises, I'd just drive the fuck out of it until you get some real damage or let all the smoke out and the wheels fall off.
I'm probably not going to fuck with it until whatever it is gets worse. I'm going down to Baja end of this month though, towing the Gartel with Manx buggy and KTM, and all of our shit inside. Just don't want to suffer complete failure down there. I'd have to get it home driving the front wheels :)
 

Master-Cylinder

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Just get a used one from a junque yard. You'll need a four wheel alignment afterwards.

I've done ring gear and pinions in stuff, some needed a case spreader to get them in. And the stink from working with the olde rotted gear oyl last forever.
 

GSXRTURBO1

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Ever seen a truck dog track down the road? I've sure there is a fudge factor in all that worn stuff. Had to have The Mighty FUSO six wheel aligned.
Yes I have, always good for a laugh. That's usually from a bent frame, but I could see it happening if the rear wasn't located properly on the leaf springs. That's why they have locators though.
 

Wretch

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I'm not sure how one would re-align the rear end. There aren't really any "adjustment" points. Just bolt it in and go, right?
It's in the bolting it in where the alignment happens.

I use string and a line level...

...and a tape measure.
 
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BigGar

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It's in the bolting it in where the alignment happens.

I use string and a line level...

...and a tape measure.
If that whole rear end comes out of my truck, I doubt I'll be the one doing it. I'm gettin' too old for that shit. I rebuilt the front end (not diff) a couple of years ago from the steering box out. Like ta' kill me. . .
 

Wretch

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If that whole rear end comes out of my truck, I doubt I'll be the one doing it. I'm gettin' too old for that shit. I rebuilt the front end (not diff) a couple of years ago from the steering box out. Like ta' kill me. . .
Shit, I have 2 and a half pianos to move this afternoon.

Better get some yoga in and practice your finger tip push-ups.
 

tinhead

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Play in the diff spiders is what you're seeing. Pinion bearing is remove the differential (wheels, brakes, c-clips, pull axles) get it on the bench and get the indicator and Dykem out.

Not difficult, just stinky and time consuming.
 

Your Car Is Slow

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pretty sure a "4 wheel alignment" indicates they simply measure the alignment of the back tires, and use that data to set the front so the vehicle tracks straight down the road.

are no alignment options for the rear of that vehicle.
 

Master-Cylinder

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If that whole rear end comes out of my truck, I doubt I'll be the one doing it. I'm gettin' too old for that shit. I rebuilt the front end (not diff) a couple of years ago from the steering box out. Like ta' kill me. . .
Much, much simpler to toss a whole rear axle assy. in, than to rebuild one. Got some Prussian Blue on ya?
 

MNtony

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My 2004 2500HD Chevy has fairly recently incurred a small bit of play. It seems that when leaving, hard or gently from a stop there's a slight hesitation and then a little "hit" as it takes off. U-joints seem to be fine, but I'm not sure if the old, getting under it and shaking them around for play is an adequate test on a more heavy duty application like my truck. 220K miles. Probably 100K since I've changed out the differential fluid. No clunk, just that bit of play, and not every single time. It's like when it's become completely unloaded and then roll away. Nothing I can feel once truck is in motion or coming on and off throttle or after braking. Ideas?
I was talking about this with a friend of mine who is knowledgeable on the Duramax trucks as mine does what you describe, he said the driveshaft splines need to be lubricated. It's happening at the transmission yoke.
 

Vegas12

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I was talking about this with a friend of mine who is knowledgeable on the Duramax trucks as mine does what you describe, he said the driveshaft splines need to be lubricated. It's happening at the transmission yoke.

What a great idea!!!






Toyota calls it a propeller shaft.....ends up it was the splines/shaft going into the trans ...

Greasing the "propeller shaft" was a scheduled maintenance.

Check if there are zerks at the u joints..

No clue if it'll do anything, but it seems the easiest/ cheapest of the shotgun troubleshooting being suggested.
 
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BigGar

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Danno, this is my Chevy 2500HD. GMC is the Quadrasteer 1500.
Resolution has been attained.
Took it to my new mechanic guy. He's a former GM tech who works from home now. Big shop behind his house. I initially wanted him to sort out the rear end issue and closely check everything else out while it's there. Full service on rear end revealed no issues. U-joints good. Rear shocks were gone and the rear end was winding up. Old Bilstien's had over 200,000 on them so it was definitely time. Had him service front diff and transmission as those had both gone well over 100K since last service.

The biggest expense was the transfer case. The dreaded "pump rub" had finally worn a hole in the case. He pulled that out, replaced fucked up housing, installed the updated internal part so it will never happen again. He said the transfer case was almost empty of gear oil, but everything looked good with no damage. This issue wasn't unexpected and if I'd have addressed it sooner, I probably could have saved myself a $600 case half.

In regards to the play, it probably would have gone away by simply swapping out the rear shocks. I'm glad I caught up on a bunch of deferred maintenance so I'm good for another 100K or so with the old beast. Now I just need a couple of tires and a new muffler. Stainless MBRP 4" finally gave up the ghost internally and rattles like crazy. Still looks perfect from the outside. Supposed to be a lifetime warranty on their shit but I sent them an email two days ago with no response yet.

I bought an inexpensive stainless muffler on Amazon and I'll get under there with a hammer and torch to get the old one off. It's all stainless, and clamped, so it should come apart. Or not. I'll know soon enough.
 
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BigGar

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Shocks? I would not have guessed! Cheap fix there. Bummer on the transfer case. Which tc does it have?
It has a metal one that makes it go into four-wheel drive when I want it to. I have absolutely no idea what type of transfer case it is. Whatever came on Chevys in 2004
 

Jeff1216

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If you have gone 100,000 miles without servicing your transmission. Do not service your transmission! New transmission fluid causes all sorts of varnish to get released and can royally Fuck your shit up..... Remember, I was the Multi state ops manager for AAMACO for a lot of years .... They LOVED doing a flush on a 100k vehicle that had never had a tranny service. Good gamble that at least some of them will need a full rebuild in a few months.
 

Bandit Man

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If you have gone 100,000 miles without servicing your transmission. Do not service your transmission! New transmission fluid causes all sorts of varnish to get released and can royally Fuck your shit up..... Remember, I was the Multi state ops manager for AAMACO for a lot of years .... They LOVED doing a flush on a 100k vehicle that had never had a tranny service. Good gamble that at least some of them will need a full rebuild in a few months.
Learned that one working at Borg Warner. Do it every 30k or don't do it at all. Ever cut apart a torque converter that was in a high stress vehicle? Even at 50k it has so much crap in it that would destroy a working trans if it ever got cleaned out.
 
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BigGar

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If you have gone 100,000 miles without servicing your transmission. Do not service your transmission! New transmission fluid causes all sorts of varnish to get released and can royally Fuck your shit up..... Remember, I was the Multi state ops manager for AAMACO for a lot of years .... They LOVED doing a flush on a 100k vehicle that had never had a tranny service. Good gamble that at least some of them will need a full rebuild in a few months.
I'll give you an update in few months because it's too late now!
 
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