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ysr_racer

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My God, is this what I sound like when I'm yammering on and on about pistol shooting?

Three fucking pages?

I had no idea. I'm so sorry.
 

CZLoco

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For real? :lol:
I came '' this close to doing it yesterday so all is forgiven :up:
 

BigGar

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Watch this guy apply it

That's Renny! burly and I hung out with him and his bride in Monterey one evening. Nice dude. His wife is a hoot. Helped burly out with a shoe issue (long story. . .). I cannot imagine using 16oz on car. I might use two to three oz maximum. Probably less. I'm doing the wheels, inner wheel barrels if prudent, and glass, often inside glass too. Of course, I'm doing it to cars that I just did the same thing to a week or two before usually. I did do a black H2 recently that I hadn't seen for a couple of years and it might have been a 4-5 oz job, but it actually needed some polishing that I didn't have time to mess with that day. That paint was pretty dry and needy.
I like the stuff. My gallon of NexGen ceramic spray came in. Unlike the Beadmaker and Meguiar's Synthetic Express Spray wax at $40ish / gallon, it was about $175 / gallon. I'm going to give it a whirl and see how it holds up on a few cars. I've also had nice results with CarPro Reload. It's made for renewing CQuartz ceramic coatings, but can also be used on it's own. It's priced similar to the NexGen, so not cheap. For the money, it's Beadmaker all the way for me at this point. I've also started trying it out on leather interiors. I want to see if it helps with dye transfer problems. I've got one lady with a Cayenne that has light tan leather, and she always wears the fashiony super dark blue jeans. That fucking blue is a bitch to get off of her seats every week or two. It does make the leather slippery, for better or worse...
 
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Rhino

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Here is what I'm talking about on the aluminum trim.

20190926_125335.jpg
 
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Rhino

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Have a spot on the passenger mirror as well..

20190926_125312.jpg

Havent tried a polishing compound yet but that might be the next step
 

Dameon

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Have a spot on the passenger mirror as well.. Havent tried a polishing compound yet but that might be the next step
Yeah, that really looks like hard water spots. Should just be in the clear coat. I wouldn't hit that with a Dremel. Start with the least harsh methods and keep stepping it up. Maybe try CLR in a small inconspicuous spot. I'm not sure how aggressive you can be with Cadillac clear coat.
 
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Rhino

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I did the KTM with the Nexgen stuff.. I dig it.. it even made the plastic shine.

IMG_20190926_160911_741.jpg

20190926_145737.jpg

The NexGen is pretty decent.. did the entire bike.. plastic rubber and everything ... it came out insanely nice ... I did front fender on the V to see the difference from the hood. Stuff works damn nice.
 

ysr_racer

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I picked up my car from the storage place, and it looked great. I asked the guy, did it look this good when I dropped it off?

He mumbled something and just shook his head. He asked me how often I wash it?

Like I have Rockefeller money for car washes.
 

CZLoco

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Is there anything you can apply to car interior dash/plastic that will let you use a yard blower to blow off the dust?
My Bronco is almost surely going to get a three-layer bed/interior coating next year.
First layer for sound deadening.
Second layer for ceramic heat reflection.
Third layer for durable "truck bed-like" coating.

Today I had my softtopper open while I did the yard.
Then I used the grass blower to blow grass onto the street (fuck you :lol: ) and I also used it to blow some of the dust off my dashboard and grass clippings out of the truck.
Most of the dust is still sitting on the uncoated dash though.
 

BigGar

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O.K., I used the NexGen on a few cars today. Interesting stuff. If it shows some durability, it could be a really cool product. I've been super happy with the durability of the Beadmaker stuff. Supposedly the NexGen is longer lasting that that even. The strange / cool / questionable thing about this stuff is that, like Rhino found out, also shines up plastic, almost like a dressing. It's more difficult to use than Beadmaker, but gives slightly superior results in terms of the way it fills scratches, shines plastic, and such. It's a bit "oily", like spraying a 303 dressing or something but with an initial wipe with one microfiber to kind of rub it in, then a follow up with a fresh dry one to remove any haze, the results are really nice. Not smeary or streaky like I might have thought from a product that seems so oily upon initial application. I think there's a 24 hour curing time to get maximum durability where you don't want to wash it again or maybe even get it wet. I'm wondering if that F11 Topcoat stuff behaves the same way. Anyway, the big question is if it lasts. If it does, and especially if it lasts on the textured plastic bits, it could be a game changer. It's also about four times as expensive as the Beadmaker. Not a huge deal as I was only using an ounce or so per car.
 

BigGar

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Not sure about that if they're porus. I don't think it would hurt them. The NexGen stuff would I bet as it's more "oily".
 

Stites

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So I got up early last Saturday and applied the Bead Maker after a good washing. It was supposed to storm all week here and I wanted it protected.

Fast forward to today and I got wash it after driving through several rain storms and one snow storm where the roads were heavily salted and dirty.

Started off with the pressure washer and was really surprised at how dirt, salt and a little mud doesn’t seem to want to stick to the Bead Maker. I was strongly considering not using soap. After spraying the entire truck down I could see it did need so soap so I washed. After the soap and rinse it was still making very nice beads and the surface was still really slick.

As of now I am very happy with this product and have applied it to the windows, paint and chrome to include the wheels. All were much easier to clean this go around specifically the wheels as virtually no brake dust attached itself.

I applied another coat this afternoon and will report back with any new updates
 

ysr_racer

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Maybe I'm doing mine wrong, but I'm using the yellow microfiber towels from Costco, and my dries streaky.

Thoughts?

Do you put the bead maker right on the paint, or wax the car first?
 

Stites

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Maybe I'm doing mine wrong, but I'm using the yellow microfiber towels from Costco, and my dries streaky.

Thoughts?

Do you put the bead maker right on the paint, or wax the car first?
I put it on with Costco towels as well and right on after the wash. No streaks, my towels are freshly washed. I spray the entire panel and wipe it down with one towel and then instantly follow with a “dry” only towel. I move very fast and do one panel at a time applying and drying before moving to the next panel. I do the entire truck in less than ten minutes
 

Terry_Schiavo

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you dont use "fresh" out of the package towels?? I would think any "used" towel is going to not be best for final finish work... maybe Im wrong?
 
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Rhino

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Maybe I'm doing mine wrong, but I'm using the yellow microfiber towels from Costco, and my dries streaky.

Thoughts?

Do you put the bead maker right on the paint, or wax the car first?
Shade... on a cool surface..

If you doing it on in the sun on a hot surface you will get streaks.

The Next Gen took all my sun streaks out.
 

ysr_racer

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I put it on with Costco towels as well and right on after the wash. No streaks, my towels are freshly washed. I spray the entire panel and wipe it down with one towel and then instantly follow with a “dry” only towel. I move very fast and do one panel at a time applying and drying before moving to the next panel. I do the entire truck in less than ten minutes
Thanks, do you wax the car first?
 

Stites

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Thanks, do you wax the car first?
I did not.......a few weeks ago I stopped the paint of everything. Cut with a polish and a pad and then buffed.

YSR, wash your car, clay the fucker, wash it again and spray on the bead maker.
 

BigGar

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The Beadmaker is my wax now. I may still hit a car with the Collinite from time to time, but I'm not really sure. The shit lasts and protects. I'm still getting my feet wet with the NexGen. I put it on a white Raptor the other day, actually, my client did, and I finished it because it was smeary as hell. I did a grey metallic Chevy Colorado today for a former LABs member from the wayback machine, Sui. I cleaned the glass with 0000 steel wool, washed it, clayed it, polished a few spots with the rotary, polished the rest with my orbital, wiped it down and then applied the NexGen. It's going to be a good real world test for this as it sits out most of the time and doesn't get a lot of love. One thing for sure is the NexGen is WAY harder to work with than the Beadmaker. You really have to work the smears and streaks out. They WILL come out, but you've got to wipe with that fresh dry micro a lot after spreading it with the first one, panel by panel. I think the results may be slightly superior, maybe not. NexGen is definitely better on textured plastic. Still not a 303 look, but better than no dressing at all, and may last a long time. They both make the cars look great.
 

BigGar

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Rocco,

I really like the Reload stuff too. I put CQuartz on my Mini and a few client vehicles. Reload is made to freshen that stuff up from time to time, but also works well in it's own right. I'd put ease of use about in the middle of Beadmaker and NexGen. A little smeary, but not bad. It's expensive like NexGen. Beadmaker is about 1/4 the price of either of them. That said, when you're only using an ounce or three per application, it's kind of irrelevant in the grand scheme of things. For me, the NexGen is still a completely unknown quantity as I've only put it on a few vehicle and all very, very recently. The Reload lasts a long time, as does Beadmaker. Reload does have massive scratch filling qualities, so if your paint is a little tired looking, it will really make a monster difference. I just used the last of my Reload on a metallic black Mercedes a couple of weeks ago. I applied it in the sun to fairly warm paint. The car could have used a nice polish, but the client, as well as myself were pressed for time this go-around. I was super impressed with how much better the paint looked just applying the stuff. I guess if I had to choose the best of the three for working with imperfect paint, Reload would be it. I'll be reporting more about the NexGen as soon as I get a few months of experience with it. It might have those qualities too. Beadmaker will work on any paint, but I think it prefers nicely corrected paint as it's not going to hide a lot of stuff. I can't stress enough how important claying your paint is, and whatever you do, don't buy one of those clay substitute rubbery wash mitts. You might as well just wipe the whole car down with 1500 grit sandpaper. Far too harsh unless you're already planning on a major paint correction starting with heavy rubbing compound. Original, brand name Clay Magic blue is the only game in town IMHO. The yellow stuff from Meguiar's isn't horrible, but just get the blue Clay Magic.
 

Dameon

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I put the Bead Maker on the stainless steel kitchen stuff this weekend... mixed results. 5 foot viewing is great. Very nice shine, even looking. Hit it at the right angle and you can see streaks. I used one microfiber to apply, a second one to dry. I even tried a third one to get the streaks out. Not 100% successful. Maybe I'm a perfectionist.

I'm still satisfied. Should keep fingerprints and such to a minimum. Easier to wipe off with a damp cloth.

On the car note: I got caught in a summer rain storm Saturday night after dinner out with friends. The car sat in the rain at the restaurant and then drove home in the rain on the Interstate. The last 2-3 miles of driving were bone dry (road and air). When I parked in the garage, there wasn't a single drop of water on the car. Looked freshly washed. Amazing stuff!
 
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Rhino

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This is what I started with
20191006_182935.jpg
20191006_140354.jpg
This is the progress so farIMG_20191111_181134_536.jpg
IMG_20191110_160850_604.jpg

20191110_145402.jpg
20191111_152927.jpg


Interior was pretty disgusting
20191108_110807.jpg

Still looking for a front drivers seat replacment but at least the interior is clean enough to sit in now.
20191109_142554.jpg

I'm now getting all the mechanical issues done.. the list is long but I should have it all done by next week.

The one thing I have not addressed on the detailing is Rain spots on the window. Claying didn't work. Nor did clear vinegar steel wool treatment. I havent gone the chemical or polishing route yet but looks like I'll have some work cut out to get all the glass corrected.
 

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Rhino

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Nice.. a quick detail here costs $250... but I do better on my own vehicle then a guy that only going to spend a few hours on a minor detail (I get somewhat insane about what clean is)

The truck was in pretty shitty shape when I bought it. A few weeks and its winter presentable now but still needs a spring paint correction session.

All this for a spoiled dog that hates the CTS V which I like to drive way over an old jeep. :)
 

BigGar

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Interior was pretty disgusting
View attachment 26461

Still looking for a front drivers seat replacment but at least the interior is clean enough to sit in now.


The one thing I have not addressed on the detailing is Rain spots on the window. Claying didn't work. Nor did clear vinegar steel wool treatment. I havent gone the chemical or polishing route yet but looks like I'll have some work cut out to get all the glass corrected.
Paul,
Factory Match Replacement Leather Seat Covers | The Seat Shop
These guys have really excellent products.
I did the seats on a 2000 F150. Color was spot-on, installation video was super helpful, and the seats came out like brand new. It was a bit of a job, but nothing impossible. Pick up just new leather panels for drivers seat back and bottom, or just bottom, and get after it.

In regards to the glass, it's fucking tough stuff. I've used Blue Magic or similar metal polish on a rotary buffer with mixed results. You won't hurt the glass by trying though.
 
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Rhino

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Thanks Gregg.. I'll give them a call.. it's just the bottom seat that worn and ripped everything else is in decent shape for the age.

I'll give that glass a go and see what results I get
 

BigGar

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You can click click click on the site and see if they offer what you need. I'd bet they do as there's a lot of those Grand Cherokees still on the road. It's a little challenging to take the seat apart and peel the old cover off, then carefully install the new cover, putting the hog rings in place and such, but their bespoke install videos are very detailed to make it nearly foolproof.
 

BigBusa

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Gar what's the best way for a newb to make aniline king ranch leather feel supple and soft again? The older thick stuff from 2005. Not the cheaper dyed stuff from 10 years later. I tried that leatherique stuff and it discolored my seat. The conditioners sink in but don't seem to do much in the way of making the leather look and feel nice. I have youtubed it and never have seen an end result that I thought was really good.
 

Austin_F

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The one thing I have not addressed on the detailing is Rain spots on the window. Claying didn't work. Nor did clear vinegar steel wool treatmen
I'll just say it. New windshields are relatively cheap.

When my tbird developed a crack I spent about $300 for a windshield company to come to my house and replace it. After that every time i got into my olds cutlass with original glass I was pissed at it. No rain spots just so many micro scratches you could hardly see through it when the sun was out.

If the rest of the car wasn't deteriorating and I was going to keep it a new windshield would have been a no brainer. It was so freaking nice looking through new glass. And new wipers work better on new glass as well.

Just something to consider.
 

scottcolbath

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I used to swear by the old formula of Honda Polish. That shit was amazing. I used it on my 12 and my Busa. Never had to put a drop of water on the bikes. Spray the bike down, let it sit on it for @ 10 minutes and then wipe off with a clean microfiber towel. Fucking mirror polish and bugs and grim wouldn't stick to it. After a couple of coats yo could just wipe bugs guts off with a soft towel and that was it. I really miss that stuff.. fucking C.A.R.B. :fu:
I still have some of the original stuff.

S.C.
 

pimpslayer

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I still have some of the original stuff.

S.C.
I do too.

Honda had changed the formula a couple of years before I moved to TN in '99. We had just ordered a case of the small Honda Cleaner Polish cans that other dealers didn't seem to stock, they fit under the seat or in a tank bag nice. It was old stock, good stuff.

I ordered a case to bring to TN with me. I just looked the other day...I'm down to my last 2 small cans. :biggrin1a:

I always pick up a big can of the Original Bike Spirits stuff when I find a stockist.
 

BigGar

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Gar what's the best way for a newb to make aniline king ranch leather feel supple and soft again? The older thick stuff from 2005. Not the cheaper dyed stuff from 10 years later. I tried that leatherique stuff and it discolored my seat. The conditioners sink in but don't seem to do much in the way of making the leather look and feel nice. I have youtubed it and never have seen an end result that I thought was really good.
I think we went down this road already BB! Sorry that stuff didn't work well. I honestly don't know what to do with that raw King Ranch leather after your earlier experience. I've used the Leatherique personally on a few cars now with good results but you absolutely HAVE to use the Pristine Clean to follow up after you leave it on the seats for a couple of days. The Leatherique will suck dirt and contaminants out of the leather and leave a sticky residue. The Pristine Clean (from Leatherique) finishes them off nicely.
 

Terry_Schiavo

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Gar what's the best way for a newb to make aniline king ranch leather feel supple and soft again? The older thick stuff from 2005. Not the cheaper dyed stuff from 10 years later. I tried that leatherique stuff and it discolored my seat. The conditioners sink in but don't seem to do much in the way of making the leather look and feel nice. I have youtubed it and never have seen an end result that I thought was really good.
same thing you do on leathers... mink oil and hand lotion with lanolin oil in it. Will make the leather supple and basically water resistant
 

BigBusa

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I think we went down this road already BB! Sorry that stuff didn't work well. I honestly don't know what to do with that raw King Ranch leather after your earlier experience. I've used the Leatherique personally on a few cars now with good results but you absolutely HAVE to use the Pristine Clean to follow up after you leave it on the seats for a couple of days. The Leatherique will suck dirt and contaminants out of the leather and leave a sticky residue. The Pristine Clean (from Leatherique) finishes them off nicely.
Ahhh it was you that turned me on to that leatherique shit back in 2013. I forgot. I haven't fucked with the leather since then. It's like cardboard now. I'm finding out that aniline leather is totally different than any other leather in a vehicle. It's literally like the leather a jacket would be made of. I know you said you used leatherique on vehicle leather with good results but was it aniline leather?

a bit of Googling turned this nugget of info up posted a couple years after I ruined my seat with leatherique. From a BMW site...

While I agree that leather on most modern cars is coated and sealed, I disagree with your assertion that Leatherique is great for unsealed leather like as found on Ford's King Ranch products...it's not and it will ruin it.
 
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BigGar

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Well, now that the leather is basically ruined anyway, what you got to lose? I'd go with Shiavo's recommendation to just grease the fuck out of the stuff and hope for the best.

Sorry about that previous recommendation! :red:
 
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